A Toast to the coast

Lecce, an hour from Otranto sports a Baroque look 8211; the impressive Basilica St Croce erected by Gabriele Ricardi inhabiting the Old Town region with the Amphitheatre, the Piazza Duomo, the high watchtower swarming with tourists. Lecce is also a shopper8217;s haven we discovered, the hot summer bringing out bold attire and exhibitionist couture to the voyeuristic eyeful.

On the Mediterranean8217;s edge, well almost, is the quaint port of Trani with its grand shoreline cathedral. As the sunset stretched over the mauve horizon, we trudged into a small wine parlour for a sampling of Puglian red wines and that mouth watering delicacy 8211; the Taralli a sensible version of the pretzel. The next day, we took more liberty with the Apulian delicacies at Alberobello. When we were not eating, we took time off for the conical rooftops of this town besides the spherically designed slate stone built Trulli houses.

Part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage, these remarkable Trullos clustered around the Monti and Aia Piccola neighborhood of Alberobello are an environmentalist8217;s delight. We sauntered up these bright Trulli village houses shops, ristorantes and fancy boutiques outside which shop owners called out aggressively to us to try out some 8220;Trulli8221; fantastic home-made liqueurs, aperitifs and local wines. Italian hospitality and some serious tastings later, we left Alberobello8217;s 8216;Trulli8217; amazing experience, appropriately light-headed!

Tenuta Locorotondo8217;s cooperative wineries are home to Puglia8217;s many robust red and white wine blends and our wine savouring stint there prepared us for some hearty lunch later. Ostuni, another water8217;s edge town, is reputed for its 8220;White City8221; appellation, quaint old town facades and hillside vistas of verdant countryside adding valour to its contrast. We strolled down the pencil-thin cobbled streets at night, a blazing luminescent glow lighting up the entire town. The road through gruff rocky terrain and emerging dramatic views of the Gargano Promontory, to the sacred village of Monte Sant8217; Angelo was meditative. This locale with its old Apulian roofs and narrow cobbled steps unfolds intriguing insights into another era now kept alive by its enterprising inhabitants. We lunched and wined at the Reggia Estiva di Frederico, replete with old parched frescoes.

Onto the cool, underground grotto of the Archangel and the sacred altar. Legend has it that the most revered Saint Francesco of Assisi from central Italy prayed and sought pardon for his sins, standing outside the shrine for fear of committing sacrilege by entering the grotto.

En route to Bari, another bustling Apulian city, we cruised down the foliage-cooled coastal route along the Gargano strip, taking in the spectacular, naturally weathered limestone cliffs in stunning renditions tucked into alcoves and water inlets along the Adriatic fringes. Bari is a contrasting meacute;lange of Puglian modernity juxtaposed with the ancient heritage character of its urban design. Down its medieval, old city lanes and courtyards, we found tradition steadfastly edging contemporary attitudes. The contrasts are worth registering8230;old osterias small family-run restaurants find pride of position with avant-garde boutiques stocking naughty, lacy lingerie, Old stone-walled homes encrusted with no-glare temperature-controlled window panes and designer two-wheelers beside.

We raised a toast with our well-picked Soperto Primitivo red Puglian wine, to the energy and spirit of Apulia. Salude!

How to get there

Fly from Mumbai to Milan Malpensa direct non-stop on Alitalia8217;s convenient connection under eight hours, then on to its domestic network one hour to Bari or Brindisi in Puglia. Guided coach tours and self-drives on excellent highways make travel easy within Puglia Apulia. Try superb local fare at cafes, ristorantes and osterias, specially seafood varieties.