Loom Ahead

An exhibition of cotton weaves in Mumbai attempts to revive the craft of the Rabha community.

It is not surprising that the weaving traditions of the Rabha women are little known outside the Dooar forests of West Bengal and Assam. According to Sarmistha Lahiri, Secretary of Hast Karigar Society, the Rabha community is shy and rarely engages with the outside world. “We had gone to the Buxa and Chilapata forests as a part of our work to find and revive lost or dying handicrafts and handloom traditions,” she says. The skilful weaves of the Rabhas caught the attention of the organisation, which realised that this craft needed a wider exposure. “Impressions”, the Hast Karigar Society’s exhibition at the Coomaraswamy Hall in the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS), is an effort in that direction. The exhibition is on till November 1.

The traditional economy of the Rabhas is based on agriculture and forests, and it is the women who do the weaving. Using two types of looms, they weave cotton cloth that are very soft and have lively and colourful patterns. “The women mostly weave lufungs (sarongs) and maplas (stoles) for themselves, and for festivals,” says Lahiri, “Traditionally they used natural colours on the fabric, although many are now using artificial substitutes. We’re trying to revive the use of natural dyes.”

Along with the Uttar Banga Bon-Jan Shramajeevi Mancha, the Hast Karigar Society organised a group of 15 Rabha women from a village in the Buxa forests early last year and provided them with the opportunity to earn a livelihood through their weaving and, at the same time, work to revive their craft.

This year, the weavers from Buxa have been joined by a group from the Mendabari forest village in Chilapata forest. “When we started the revival project last year, we had included a few dupattas,” says Lahiri, “We were overwhelmed with the response we got everywhere — Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai — and that is why we decided to include the Rabha weaving traditions as a full part of the exhibition. We have a much wider selection, including dupattas, stoles and sarongs, and are planning to expand into saris next year.”

pooja.pillai@expressindia.com

Pooja Pillai

Pooja Pillai is a Senior Assistant Editor at The Indian Express, working with the National Editorial and Opinion section. Her work frequently explores the intersection of society, culture and technology. Editorial Focus & Expertise Pooja’s writing spans several key domains, often blending analytical commentary with cultural critique. Art & Culture: She writes extensively on cinema, books, and the evolving landscape of arts and entertainment. Technology & Society: Her work examines the human impact of the gig economy, the rise of AI in creative fields, and the cultural shifts driven by digital platforms. Food & Lifestyle: She often uses food as a lens to explore history and politics, covering everything from the origins of pantry essentials to the impact of nutrition policy. Politics: She closely tracks political developments in South and West India and provides commentary on international political transitions, including the shifting landscape of American politics. Multimedia & Podcasting Pooja is a prominent voice in the Indian Express’s digital ecosystem. She is the host of 'DeshKaal with Yogendra Yadav', weekly video podcast where she facilitates deep-dive conversations on Indian democracy, social movements, and current political affairs. Notable Recent Works Cinema & Identity: “SRK@60: Why Shah Rukh Khan is Bollywood's last, and only, superstar” – an analysis of stardom and the changing face of Indian identity Global Politics: Commentary on the Trump administration’s misguided “war on woke culture” via typography and analysis of the visual semiotics of Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s attire during successive visits to the White House. Art & AI: “An unequal music: AI is lowering barriers at the cost of music itself” – a critique of how technology is redefining artistic value. Professional Presence Pooja is active on X (formerly Twitter) and Instagram, where she shares her latest columns and editorial insights. Her full archive and latest updates can be found on her Indian Express Author Profile. ... Read More

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