Premium

Why Coorg’s Pandi Curry and Mange Pajji define Kodava cooking

Prasad Bidapa, fashion and heritage textile curator, on how his favourite food captures memory and tradition

Pandi Curry

My mother, Bollu Bidappa, was an extraordinary cook, renowned for her authentic Coorg dishes that left everyone wanting more. Her steamed rice puttus, paired with mouth-watering pork, chicken and mutton curries, were a staple at our gatherings. Growing up, I remember the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans from our estate filling the air, while the tender bamboo shoots, soaked overnight, added an unforgettable flavour to her dishes.

As an Air Force wife, she mastered diverse regional cuisines, effortlessly whipping up traditional Coorg desserts, cakes and puddings. Her attention to detail and passion made every small meal a celebration for us. I’m grateful she shared her treasured recipes with my wife, Judith, who keeps my mother’s culinary spirit alive. In Coorg, or Kodagu, food is woven into tradition and memory and two dishes that best capture its spirit are the famous Pandi Curry and the summer-fresh Mange Pajji. Their flavours and techniques reflect the essence of Kodava cooking — bold, tangy, aromatic and deeply rooted in local ingredients.

Recipe:

Pandi Curry (Pork Curry)

Ingredients

For the Curry:

Pork with fat/skin – 1 kg, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kachampuli (Coorg vinegar) – 2–3 tsp

(or thick tamarind juice/malt vinegar)

Turmeric powder – 1 tsp

Salt – to taste

Water – 2–3 cups (approx.)

Wet Masala Paste

Onions (sambar or shallots) – 250 gm, roughly chopped

Garlic – 150 gm, peeled

Ginger – 50 gm, scraped

Green chillies – 4–5

Coriander leaves – ½ bunch

Dry Masala Powder:

Coriander seeds – 6 tsp

Cumin seeds – 5 tsp

Black peppercorns – 2 tsp

Cloves – 5–6

Cinnamon stick – 1 inch

Cardamom – 3–4

Mustard seeds – 1 tsp

Fenugreek (methi) seeds – ½ tsp

Curry leaves – 1 sprig

Prasad Bidappa

Method

1.Prepare the wet masala: Grind onions, garlic, ginger, green chillies, and coriander leaves into a fine paste using about half a cup of water.

2. Prepare the dry masala: Dry roast coriander seeds, cumin, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, mustard, fenugreek, and curry leaves until deep brown (almost black). Cool and grind to a fine powder.

3.Cook the curry: In a heavy pot, cook the wet masala until fragrant.

Add the pork pieces, the dry masala powder, and salt. Mix well and cook for 5 minutes. Add turmeric powder and enough water to cover the meat (about 2–3 cups). Cover and slow-cook until the pork is tender—45 to 90 minutes depending on the cut.

Story continues below this ad

4. Finish: Stir in the Kachampuli and simmer for another 5–10 minutes until the curry darkens and becomes tangy.

5. Serve: Garnish with coriander. Pandi Curry is traditionally enjoyed with Akki Otti (rice roti) or Kadumputtu (rice balls).