In Full Measure

I am especially reminded of sweets such as fios de ovos (thin strands of egg cooked delicately in sugar), bolo sans rival (a cashewnut dacquoise layered with buttercream), dodol (a palm sugar cake), and, of course, the notorious bebinca.

Christmas lunch was a family reunion, to catch up on the missing links and savour a sumptuous meal while at it. Coconut is a permanent invitee in all Goan sweets. Pork and beef occupy a special place on the Christmas table, especially with piglings being butchered right in your backyard. A salted leg of pork (porco salgado), a classic beef roast and the special pork cabidela (a stew of meat and liver cooked in its own blood) were the dishes that were eagerly awaited.

To wash it down, and to add to the merriment, the choicest wines, Cognac and some locally distilled cashew feni from the not-so-far village households made their rounds in our house. All in all, a lovely celebration with special moments, that would linger on till we could welcome the star of Bethlehem once again into our homes. My memories of festive feasts and simple home-cooked meals — pork chilli fry, chicken xacuti and crab xec xec — find an all-important place in my menu at my restaurant, Jamun, in Delhi’s Lodhi Colony.

I’m certain that many a chef have taken lessons and inspiration from the Goan home kitchens that worked on a 365-day calendar of feasts — how could I be any different?

Beef Wellington

serves 6

preparation time: 1 hour, 25 minutes;
cooking time: 18 minutes

Ingredients

Dry-rub ingredients

1 – Pod garlic (chopped)
1.5inch – Ginger
8-10 – Peppercorns
6-8 – Cloves
2 inches – Cinnamon
1 tsp – Turmeric powder
1 tsp – Cumin seeds
1kg – beef
Collard greens
2 tbsp – Vinegar (Goan/apple cider)
Salt, as per taste

For The Puff Pastry

1.7kg – Bread flour
2.5 tsp – salt
2 cups – water
850g – Unsalted butter (at room temperature)

Method

* Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer that is fitted with a dough hook. Gradually pour water until the dough comes together, enough to clean the sides of the bowl. You may not need the full amount of water. Shape into a flat ball, and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.

* Place the butter between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound into a flat disc using a rolling pin or other heavy object. Refrigerate until firm, for about
20 minutes.

* On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a large rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Place the disc of chilled butter at the centre and fold the two ends over it so that it is completely encased in dough.

* Roll out the dough again, taking care not to let the butter break through the dough, to about 1/2-inch thickness. Fold into thirds. This is the first “turn”. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and roll out into a rectangle again.

* Fold into thirds. By this time, the butter is starting to get warm. Place the dough on a baking sheet and mark it with two pokes of your finger (two turns).

* Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

* Repeat this rolling, folding and turning two more times, then refrigerate until firm.

* Repeat two more times for a total of six “turns”. Wrap and refrigerate. The dough is now ready to roll out and use.

* Marinate the beef tenderloin with a mixture of the dry-rub ingredients.

* Wrap it with the puff pastry dough and bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 18 minutes. Serve hot.