Behind The Seams

An Indian-owned New York-based fashion label that ‘makes in India’ to support fair trade.

Punjya launched himself into an informal education of garments and textile and what the general perception of Make in India was.

When Shivam Punjya arrived in India as a student of Duke University, US, to research on women’s reproductive health in Jaipur and Hyderabad for his thesis, little did he expect his career to make a paradigm shift. From working in maternal and child health to launching a fashion label — there is barely anything in common. “I am a firm believer that sustainable solutions are embedded in social enterprises,” he says.

The result is Behno, a ‘make in India’ enterprise that sources fabric from outside Vadodara, Gujarat, and designs a contemporary global wardrobe in New York. The goal of Behno is to address garment workers’ rights, health and wellness, while subsequently enhancing the profile and expertise of Indian factories. It is a space where ethical thinking and luxury design meet.

“When I was conducting research here, I came across khadi for the first time and fell in love with its beautiful texture,” says Punjya, 26, who has been in Mumbai for the past week putting together his launch at Colaba’s Chatterjee and Lal art gallery on Saturday. “I began to learn more about it and noticed a visible disparity between what they were producing and what they were earning,” he says.
Punjya launched himself into an informal education of garments and textile and what the general perception of Make in India was. He wanted to challenge the preconceived notions. The Rana Plaza fire in Bangladesh in 2013 struck a raw nerve but the idea of Behno was born. Punjya has tied up with MSA Ethos, a garment factory in rural Gujarat that implements ethical business practices and works like a self-sustaining village.

Behno’s Fall/ Winter 2015, which is being launched in Mumbai, is a collection of tailored western wear, coats, dresses and trousers with the touch of a luxury label. The design team is based out of New York and Paris and none of them are Indian. “That’s the beauty of it. It inspires me to think the design team believes in Behno’s mission,” says Punjya. Ethical fashion is especially significant in today’s global mood. “It is a collaborative effort between the various players within the landscape. As a brand, we’re hoping to challenge one thread of this web. In order to revolutionise the supply chain, ethics cannot be an afterthought,” he adds.

So, what does a consumer look for when purchasing? “You have to absolutely love something first. Then quality over quantity. And finally, listen to the back-end story. Is the brand doing something to positively impact the supply chain of manufacturing,” says Punjya.
These are questions that barely cross a shopper’s mind. But with the first-rate Fall collection that Behno is showing, it has our ears alright.

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