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This is an archive article published on July 9, 2011

Fish on my mind

Fish Curry Rice will leave you with just that sentiment. Trees obscure this eatery's non-frilly facade from the chaotic traffic sounds of Narayan Peth.

Fish Curry Rice at Narayan Peth comes up trumps on all aspects of its name,and more

Remember that feeling of complete contentment after a meal? Fish Curry Rice will leave you with just that sentiment. Trees obscure this eatery’s non-frilly facade from the chaotic traffic sounds of Narayan Peth. The angular interiors have an air of immaculate efficiency. And no,it doesn’t reek cripplingly of fish! And the dim light bouncing off of clean cutlery promises an easy ride for the weakest of stomachs. The peripherals assured,direct undivided attention to the food.

First up is the complimentary bowl of some translucent red liquid. Meet Tival (aka,Futtikadi),which is a watered-down Solkadi with a distinct garlic twang to it. The menu includes a long list of non-vegetarian fare,but we wisely decide to stick to fish. Our eyes light up at the sight of Stuffed Bombil. The fritters pack a juicy punch,with a mash of green chutney,tomatoes,onions and a special masala soaking the fish in delightful flavours. This one’s a winner. At this point it must be mentioned that the fish here is amply complemented,accentuated and made absolutely finger-licking by the condiments. There’s the ubiquitous green chutney,sweet in demeanor; then the bland orange chutney that is the perfect complement to spice; and the pickled cauliflower that is very South Indian in its sesame seed garb.

On recommendation,we try the Pomfret Pedavan next. This fish has survived three stages of salt treatment (washing,marination and cooking with chutney),and steaming,but comes looking relaxed on a banana leaf. The green chutney filling and a swathe of red chutney outside,combine to make this dish an absolute knockout. The fish and the flavours are fresh and unusual,and the taste lingers. We breeze on to white rice and Mudhushe (Lady fish) curry – three sinewy fishes lazing in a bright orange gravy. The curry has a strong flavour of coconut and a berry called teerphal (North Goa cuisine has a strong bias towards this one),which befuddles the palate with an indescribable after taste. But this one grows on you,and if not,then there are the chutneys to save you! Aiding the process of digestion is twin Solkadis – the regular (pink) and the white,“perishable” one with curry leaves.

Though the forte of the place,started in 2009,is fish,the vegetarian fare too is remarkable for its freshness and home-style preparation. There are reasonably priced thalis to suit all taste buds – vegetarian,fish,crab,chicken,mutton and egg. The chicken and mutton,both dry and curried,have scrumptious dried coconut and coconut milk bases respectively,which is a welcome break from the usual. The experimentative foodies can also try the Prawns Khichadi and the Prawns Aluvadi.

In spite of the full feast,we with the sweet teeth couldn’t resist desserts. On offer were Basundi and Kheer,redolent with cream and dry fruits. Perfect!


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