Premium
This is an archive article published on July 28, 2013

Six Yard Splendour

Ensemble’s Tina Tahiliani talks about her love for handcrafted textiles and the store’s latest showcase of woven saris

Tina Tahiliani’s connection with the handwoven sari dates back to her college days when she did her senior honours thesis in Maheshwar,Madhya Pradesh,with revivalist Sally Holkar. After her wedding,she inherited her mother-in-law’s vast collection of saris and it further fuelled her fascination with the traditional Indian drape. But the true eye-opening moment came on a flight five years ago,when she was seated next to a gentleman who ran a sari business. “He told me that his sales were plummeting year after year. Fewer and fewer women were buying and wearing saris in India and he was worried about his business. This sort of stayed in my mind,” says Tahiliani,who joined her designer brother Tarun Tahiliani’s pioneering fashion store Ensemble in 1990 and is now its executive director.

“Even in Maheshwar,I was astonished to see that these women were weaving gorgeous Maheshwari saris,but they were actually wearing polyester saris. While that may have been for convenience,I think after I met the businessman,I decided that I was going to devote a part of the store to the woven sari,” says Tahiliani,recounting how a boutique famed for being the launchpad for a gamut of glamorous designers — from Rohit Khosla,Tarun Tahiliani,Rohit Bal,Monisha Jaising and Manish Malhotra to Cue by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna,Varun Bahl and Gaurav Gupta — changed directions to include handcrafted saris in its repertoire.

Even as the flagship store at Lion Gate,Mumbai,currently showcases “Sartorial Sari”,a collection of handcrafted saris,featuring works of Raw Mango,PotliArts and Vidhi Singhania,Tahiliani talks about the transition in her,and resultantly,Ensemble’s thought process. “I’ve personally been very committed to the sari because I think it’s a very glamorous and versatile garment. It is six yards of cloth and you can drape it in 50 different ways,depending on what part of the country you come from. It’s mind-boggling how we have developed our legacy of drapes,” says Tahiliani,who,after previously extending support to Tushar Kumar and his endeavour to revive the Banarasi sari and Srila Devi’s efforts to save West Bengal’s Shantipur weaves,began dedicatedly stocking woven saris around two years ago.

A preview of Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango range of Banarasis and chanderis last year further reinforced her convictions. “The response was mind-blowing. It gave me faith that people still believe in the sari. It wasn’t just grandmothers buying them. A lot of young women were buying them too as an important part of their trousseau,” says Tahiliani.

The current showcase sees Garg present a new collection called “Berang”,exhibiting a resist-dyeing technique of Akola,with the primary colours being indigo,grey,black and white. Joining him is PotliArts,whose founder and textile historian Rta Kapur Chisti (author of Saris of India) is displaying luxury khadi saris,lightweight Kanchipurams,Kerala saris,cotton Paithanis,Shantiniketan batik saris and Banarasi weaves as part of her collection titled “Qalb”. The illustrious line-up also includes Vidhi Singhania’s Kota saris in bright jewel tones,with motifs such as parrots,elephants,ferns and water lilies. “It’s our way of being proud of being Indian and the craft our country has to offer,” says Tahiliani.

The fact that the Indian fashion industry is going through a handloom renaissance has only helped in the endeavour. “It’s been a lucky coincidence for us. We started supporting something that has been garnering national interest. I want women to believe that the sari is not just a ceremonial attire; I want them to make it a bigger part of their lives,” says Tahiliani,who hopes to do two sari previews annually,dedicated entirely to handcrafted weaves. “I’ve inherited the most gorgeous saris. But now I’m buying these and building my own collection so that I can pass it on to my daughter and my daughter-in-law to-be,” she says.

Stay updated with the latest - Click here to follow us on Instagram

Latest Comment
Post Comment
Read Comments
Advertisement
Loading Taboola...
Advertisement