The lightweight brocade fabric, which comes in vibrant colours with a metallic sheen and is characterised by tiny motifs and a distinct border, was traditionally woven in the form of blouse pieces proffered to deities.
Drawing reference from traditional quilting techniques like kantha and sujini and the globally-lauded Japanese boro textiles, which follow a similar method of mending and patching together, designers are giving the patchwork story a whole new narrative.
The son of a textile trader, it’s only natural that Ali has a deep appreciation and connection with woven fabrics and has worked with weaving clusters from West Bengal, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, over the years, taking traditional Indian weaves and lending them minimalistic, contemporary cuts.
One might say that couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, have been adding ruffles and frills to everything that drapes, shapes and contours for years. But it’s this season’s somewhat understated and more wearable version that is racing to the top of the trend charts.
In an era when thinking audiences are questioning the relevance of vanity-fuelled and celebrity-driven fashion shows, a few designers at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2019 sought to widen the circumference.
At Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Summer-Resort 2019, the much-celebrated Sustainable Fashion Day last week saw two brands use the waterproof polyurethane-coated material in their collections and present an impressive window into their label’s engagement with recycling and eco-friendly processes.
The show was touted as one where Gaurav Gupta would present his first-ever explorations of Lucknowi chikankari, zardozi and handwoven brocade textiles. And while the sculptural proportions, crisp lines and poetic undulations were all there, we wished we’d seen more of Gupta’s trademark bodacious interpretation of the crafts.
While the country debates sustainability practices and the Textile Ministry ruminates about “fashionising weaves”, this season, we’re looking forward to shows at LFW that promise to take the domestic design narrative forward on multiple levels
At a time when artisanal and organic weren’t popular buzzwords, and sustainability wasn’t a trending hashtag, Sangita Kathiwada’s stand-alone Altamount Road studio sought to change the design lexicon by introducing natural fabrics, minimalist shapes and mindful fashion.