Protest March

While her line “Unchained” stems from the urge for freedom from societal restrictions, it also draws succour from how life finds a way to blossom despite oppression. “It’s amazing to see how these people have since broken away, becoming independent,” says Joneja. In her re-interpretation of this unique conundrum, the designer has twisted yards of georgette into ropes that are artistically draped across dresses and jackets. Heart-shaped leather cutwork pieces are individually hand-tied to make them three-dimensional and then sewn onto breathable fabric. Joneja also draws fleeting inspiration from the ‘purdah’ system and the Chinese practice of feet binding (Lotus feet). Some may call it idealism of the young, but Joneja hopes to bring this “consciousness of expression” to all her  future collections.

Joneja’s not the only one rallying against societal straitjackets this season. Designers such as Nikhil Thampi and Nitra Arora of Valliyan are also using the LFW ramp to voice their unhappiness with restrictions on expression and sexuality, and more specifically section 377. While Arora tackles the issue head-on with a collection called “Juliet loves Juliette”, Thampi’s “Untamed” calls for unfettered expression of love —  both emerging from a personal space and ideology.

Jewellery designer Arora, whose closest friends at Parsons The New School for Design, New York, belonged to the LGBT community, celebrates their vivacity and talent through a “whimsical, magical, colourful and happy” collection of baubles. “As a part of the fashion, art and design industry, I’ve worked with many LGBT people and I think it’s important  to show our support. If we don’t, who will? And the best way to  do this is through work and art,” says Arora.

Meanwhile, Thampi’s collection will open with a pristine white line of androgynous pieces. A second line, in a burst of colours representing freedom of expression, will have zipper detailing “signifying the coming together of two different pieces; connoting that being gay and straight is the same thing,” says Thampi. The third section of glamour wear will have peach pinks, rose golds and dusky nudes punctuated with metal flowers that depict the harshness of restrictions. Thampi admits that his team was hesitant at first to take on such a controversial subject. “But I’ve realised that designers do make a difference. If certain sections of society are regressive, we can hold up a mirror to them,” he says.

Even as these young designers attempt to strike a balance between their beliefs and summer trend statements and commercial concerns, veteran designer Narendra Kumar Ahmed — who has used the catwalk to speak against censorship, religious strife, industry politics and make a case for same-sex relationships in the past — sees it as an encouraging sign of things to come. “Given the current scenario in India, as an artist and designer, you have to interpret what’s happening around you and learn to express yourself beyond just the clothes,” says Ahmed.