Fall and the guy

Men’s fashion has scarcely been as popular as women’s anywhere on the globe and yet menswear is a far more sophisticated market in India. For starters,customised tailoring has always existed here,even on a mass level. And even a middle-class gent owns at least one suit (or a dinner jacket worn with black pants,but never mind that). Raymond cannot be ignored in making made-to-measure suit-making so accessible. Not too long ago,Rs 4,000 could get you a decent custom-made suit from their swishy Breach Candy outlet,whose fabulously dressed windows could never be imitated despite many dull attempts by me-too retailers.

Men’s clothes are also far more complicated than women’s,because they are far simpler. It’s easy to decorate a sari or a kurta with sequins or embroidery,but these surface techniques make our husbands and boyfriends look like onstage magicians. Menswear requires painfully perfect cutting techniques and absolute sizing. Women’s wear is,more often than not,drape-oriented and drapes are forgiving.

Variety also separates women’s and men’s dressing. Women have far more options when dressing up. For men,more often than not,it’s all about the shirt and trouser,and maybe a jacket thrown on when the invite demands “formals”. Black is the default option for most men,whether in clothes or wallets and shoes. It makes them feel discreet and secure,but then a room filled with men in suits does tend to resemble a penguin parade. There is little room for self expression in menswear without crossing over the rainbow line. Colour is considered sartorial hara-kiri,even though pink,mauve and peppermint shirts and T-shirts look so fine on men.

About a decade ago,the desire to ‘fashion up’ men gave birth to the men’s designer. These gay boys made dandies out of our men,over-dressing them in floral shirts,appliqué kurtas,vivid colours and what have you.

And why don’t most of us attend men’s fashion shows? I have to blame those awful male models for most of it—either they look like girls or like dolphins. Add to that the dodgy designer-male model nexus and you know the after-party is really why menswear fashion shows have existed (or the after after-party).

Of course,the clothes are so high on drama you feel you’re at a costume ball. One set of highly respected designers sent out poor Amitabh Bachchan in an all-gold spangled coat,and then put a peacock on the dishy Abhishek’s jacket.

Thankfully,the metrosexual is now dead (taking the self-appointed men’s designer with him) and our men have understood that old chestnut: Elegance is refusal. And this weekend’s men’s week will prove so.

As for Mumbai’s five most stylish men: The first three slots are taken by Arjun Bhasin,costume designer and GQ’s super-chic stylist. Filmmaker Karan Johar and Baroda royalty

Pratapsinh Gaekwad come in at four and five.

Now that’s a roster even Ms Wintour would agree with.

(namrata.sharma@expressindia.com)