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This is an archive article published on September 25, 2009

Divine Drapes

There she is,in the warm glow of an autumn afternoon ,not quite sitting but perched on her faithful lion. Her eyes are serene and her ten hands flaunt the weapons of empowerment that were bestowed upon her by an assortment of gods.

There she is,in the warm glow of an autumn afternoon ,not quite sitting but perched on her faithful lion. Her eyes are serene and her ten hands flaunt the weapons of empowerment that were bestowed upon her by an assortment of gods. She is draped in an exquisite kantha stitch saree which is a tasteful departure from the ubiquitous red zari saree that symbolizes goddess Durga.

The kantha stitch saree was meant to blend with the Santiniketan-themed pandal of Purbachal Durgotsav at Hindustan Park. But it was also a statement. “The sari was something I worked really hard on. It was meant to be artistic but also glamorous. It cost as about Rs 30,000 to drape all the idols,” says costume designer,Neelanjana Ghosh who designed the sari for the idol.

Away from the posh locality of Hindustan Park,at Kumortuli Mintu Pal is readying the last batch of idols which are to be dispatched to the respective pandals. Bundles of glossy red cloth lie about his studio and there are buckets of shiny chumkis at a corner.As he smears red paint on Durga’s feet,Pal tells us about the deity’s sartorial history. “Red saris with zari border have been an overwhelming favourite for the past 50 years. However,nowadays,with the popularity of theme pujas,organizers are more experimental. Clay saris are quite the rage as idol makers find the process of creating intricate drapes very interesting,” Pal says.

At the Dum Dum Park Tarun Sangha pandal,Durga is dressed in a flaming red sari which was made of clay. “Our pandal is modeled on a fishing village and the idol is supposed to look like a local deity. We chose not to use a cloth sari to make the idol more authentic,” says Prashanta Pal who conceptualized the pandal and the idol. Lake Town Adhibashi Brinda’s idol is draped in a cheery,striped orange sari which looks like something you will buy from a Khadi outlet in Gariahat. “We wanted a distinctly Nepali look for our idol because the pandal is modeled on a typical Nepali temple,” says Gouranga Kuila who conceptualized the Puja.

For art director Ujjwal Chakraborty,who in association with Gautam Ghosh designed the Badamtala Ashar Sangha pandal,the idol’s sari is of vital importance. “What she wears is contributes to the overall effect. It has to be in keeping with the theme but one also has to keep in mind that Ma Durga stands for everything maternal. Therefore she shouldn’t alienate the visitors,” says Chakraborty. At the Badamtala Ashar Sangha pandal,the goddess can be seen in a tribal avatar. “We have dressed her in a garod sari . It may be simple but it does manage to make her stand out,” adds Chakraborty.

But do fashion trends dictate Ma Durga’s wardrobe too? “While there have been cases of idols being modeled on film stars I don’t think popular culture dictates Ma Durga’s wardrobe. It’s not likely that you will see a Durga idol in a Bollwood designer inspired sari in a pandal this year,” says Ghosh. Keeping in mind the collections of designers like Rocky S and Neeta Lulla at the recently-concluded Kolkata Fashion Week II,it’s very likely to be the other way around.

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