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Chakkas,chops and cutlets these are the welcome dishes for a visitor in a Bihari household. In this platter of batter-fried circles of aubergine or potato,known as chakka,and chops and cutlets stuffed with minced vegetable or meats,the quintessential Bihari ingredient remains hidden. The vicious green chilli,which springs up in thin slivers,as paste or even whole accompaniments,makes most dishes too hot to handle for outsiders. Its a lesson that the restaurant,Pot Belly,has learned quickly. How this new Shahpur Jat address balances Bihari cuisines hotness quotient without losing its zing remains to be seen.
The 40-seater,Pot Belly,looks like any other colourful cafe with pink,blue and white cane chairs paired with contrasting yellow and green cushions. The Bihari theme clearly is restricted to the food,which begins with a complimentary bowl of makhanas or puffed lotus seeds to nibble on,while waiting for that other Bihari soul food,the litti chokha (Rs 190). The litti is made the way it used to be before cooks began to bake the sattu-stuffed balls of dough on gas flames.
At Pot Belly,the litti has a smoky flavour that comes from being baked on coal (traditionally,litti was baked on goyetha or cow dung cakes). The litti surface looks tough,but every bite is soft and chewy. A coat of ghee glistens on the crusty surface. The sattu filling has been cooked with coriander,green chilli and garam masala. It is served with two types of chokha an aubergine-potato mash and an aubergine mash with coriander and a bowl of channa dal.
Tehri (Rs 190),a pulao that is served with papad and aubergine-coriander mash,a Tarkari thali (Rs 190),comprising seetaphal sabzi and crisp saboodana pakoda with onion stuffed paratha among others,ensures that vegetarians enjoy a meal even as their non-vegetarian diners feast on Gol Mirch Chicken or Khada Masala Chicken (Rs 270 each). Khada masala,cooked until the flavours and aroma are at the peak,mark out these curries. That,and the green chillies.
It was in one of the complimentary desserts that Pot Belly slipped up. The egg halwa was a riddle waiting to be solved it tasted of khoya and the point of the egg was totally missed.
Meal for two: Rs 700,Address: 116C,Shahpur Jat,Contact: 41612048
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