The Right Spice

We were the only ones on a weekday evening at this two-level restaurant,and noticed the bar,the mellow lights and the Kerala snake boat motifs etched on the furniture only after we had placed our orders,thanks to the piquant menu,which does have more Kerala non-vegetarian dishes listed than from the other Southern states. You have to try hard not to order a Mallu dish.

The décor is simple,and this 65-cover restaurant has a private dining area as well. Once the orders are placed,it does take some time for the food to arrive,and your eyes may start trailing the waiters during the long wait for the food to arrive. We spotted our waiter after 15 minutes,carrying two steaming bowls towards us. The wait was worth it,as the Tenderloin Stir-Fried (Rs 245),thinly sliced tenderloin,slow cooked in coconut oil and masala with onion from south Kerala,and better known as the beef fry,was soft and cooked in coconut oil,with just the right amount of pepper. We could have been at a thattukada (roadside eatery) in Kochi or Alleppey,enjoying the same fare.

The Pearlspot or Karimeen Polichathu (Rs 425),a specialty from Kerala,marinated in freshly ground spice mix and steamed in a banana leaf,was divine. The spice level merited the one water glass drawn next to its name. The Karimeen,a slimmer version than the ones found in the backwaters,was cooked well.

Placing orders for the main course,however,was a task; there were way too many zesty options. We decided to try the Andhra Prawn Curry or Royyala Iguru,prawns in a thick gravy of tomatoes and tamarind with red chillies,(Rs 595). This was fiery and only big morsels of rice could cow down the fire in our mouths,but we tucked into more; the tang of the tamarind and the sweet meat from the prawns was irresistible. The Pandi curry,pork curry from Coorg,(Rs 325) was tasty though it didn’t have enough of a vinegar and pepper kick.

The vegetarian Pumpkin Ellisseri-pumpkin pieces cooked in a moderately spiced gravy-(Rs 225),another traditional Kerala dish,was the winner with its soft,squishy sweet-and-sour mashed goodness. Any Kerala ammachi would be proud of the chef after tasting this Ellisseri.

The chefs at SWT,we found out,are from Kerala and Andhra Pradesh,and have worked in the Capital at Andhra Bhawan and Swagath. This experience did show in the dishes before us.The other factor that makes the food stand out is the fresh quality to every dish. The curries don’t taste like they have been re-heated.

To wind up our meal we ordered Pineapple Halwa (Rs 155),slow-cooked pineapple with coconut milk and dry fruits,which was stellar,with its chunks of bright yellow pineapple. It was the perfect sign-off for our meal.

We took mental notes of dishes we should order next time around: the pachadis (chutneys),the Kothemmali Saadam (Coriander Rice),the Muttaiporotta (minced porotta with scrambled eggs),and Kadala curry,the list goes on. We weren’t even looking at the water glass motifs anymore,you shouldn’t either. Try it all.

Meal for two: Rs 2,700
Address: M 24,First Floor G K Part 1
Contact: 9811674764,30894731