Rethink,Recreate

Since the just-released film doesn’t take the French label’s name,you know it isn’t a plug. It would have been opportune,since Hermès opened its first store in Mumbai,and its flagship in India,only yesterday.

The store spreads over two floors facing the Horniman Circle and the Asiatic Library. It fits right in,since it is a label that whispers history and heritage.

Many European labels that built their legacy around the ‘handmade’ ideal have re-looked at their manufacturing processes. Firstly,anything,anyone in the world can excel at,China proves it does better. Many European-owned factories have moved to here,reducing expensive labour costs,increasing numbers and swelling profits. Interestingly,China is the biggest worldwide consumer of luxury goods,too.

Hermès earned its éclat promoting quiet elegance since the time of Thierry Hermès. In 1999,Hermès had reported they had about 400 craftworkers,whereas in a recent interview to me,its India president,Bertrand Michaud said,they employed more than 2,000 craftsmen. In 1999,Hermès had approximately 100 stores,while today,they have over 300. Interestingly,in 1999,a Birkin or a Kelly was entirely handstitched and made by a single craftsperson.

But today they are partially made by machines and assembled by multiple craftsmen. They also have their enamel and lacquer products made in Vietnam,you may find a sticker at the bottom saying so. A few years ago,owning a Birkin bag was a privilege of only footballers’ wives or tycoons’ daughters,but now there isn’t a waiting list and anyone who can afford it has one. Ironically,a Birkin today costs twice more than it did in 2002.

In 2010,Hermès launched a new brand in China called Shang Xia,headed by a local designer,Jiang Qionger,that specialised in Chinese handicraft oriented products. Shang Xia was Hermès’ attempt in tailor-making for the Chinese market,where it lagged behind Vuitton and Gucci.

When the LVMH group made a bid for stocks of Hermès last year,Thomas had said: “I don’t think a house like Hermès is capable of surviving in a universe defined by money.” But Hermes is becoming more and more like LVMH. Call it modern luxury or masstige,but it leaves you with the feeling you are now paying much more and getting much less.

namratanow@gmail.com