Good to Meat

As you enter Aquum,you feel you have been here before. It is a feeling that comes from having walked into similar looking restaurants all over the city — the same deep-brown furnishing,the same low lighting,the same long-winding bar angled with lights shining through a false ceiling,the same DJ console tucked into the corner. Not to forget a big chandelier in the middle of it all. The restaurant is roomy and has an open kitchen on display,enough visual entertainment to keep you busy till the menu lands in your hands. That is when things get a little more interesting. The words on the menu are a treat to anyone who loves Mughlai cuisine — Galawati Kebab,Lucknowi Nehari,Kakori Kebab,Dum Gosht Biryani and Murgh Karchan. We took it all in with hungry eyes,and the orders were placed quickly.

Tucked at the back of Select Citywalk mall,Saket,the place is yet to draw in the crowds. And it is yet to get its licence to serve stiff drinks. In the kitchen,we could see the skewers getting lined with meat,a pot of biryani being passed around and naans patted out into the chula. But while we waited for the food,something seemed terribly amiss. The menu read well,the place was comfortable,the service good,but what was that sound in the background? A bit of bouncy house music,which just didn’t fit into the whole Mughlai dining experience. Some relaxed jazz music or even Jagjit Singh could have sufficed. But then soon enough the food arrived to distract us wonderfully.

The Kakori Kebab (Rs 379) was mouthwateringly delicious,just as good was the Galawati (Rs 379) with hints of kewra and cardamom. The Lucknowi Nehari (Rs 399) had succulent meat and the gravy was heavy with the deep flavours of lamb shanks that were cooked on a low flame. With the last of the nehari mopped up with a naan,we waited for our next indulgence — Dum Gosht Biryani (Rs 399). The atta seal on the pot popped and the ghee-laced,saffron-lined rice with gosht,made tiny appetising mountains on our warm plates. The biryani was fragrant,with the right amount of spices,though the meat could have fallen off the bone a little more readily; the taste was worth the effort of tugging it off though. The lamb dishes are clearly the highlight at Aquum since the Murgh Karchan (Rs 349) didn’t cause a stir on our palates. The tender chicken morsels were smothered with spices and colour.

The portions at Aquum may not look enough but they pack quite a punch as they are heavy on ghee. When it came to dessert there were no second guesses and we promptly ordered for Shahi Tukra and Phirnee Brulee (Rs 149 each). Both were delectable,and came with the chandelier reflected on the varq lining the top. We could see the chefs taking a break as we scraped the last of the phirni from its clay cup,but the DJ was still spinning some “deep house”. We were ready to forgive him.

Meal for Two: Rs 1,500

Address: 11/12/14 A

D-2 Southern Park

Behind Select Citywalk,Saket

Contact: 46696141