Cast in stones

A number of fashion designers are collaborating with established jewellery brands to launch their lines of precious jewellery

At her Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) show last August,designer Anita Dongre turned up wearing a three-line neckpiece studded with an uncut diamond and an emerald rock. The jewellery,which soon became a talking point among fashion observers,was the result of Dongres first brush with jewellery designing. Designing jewellery is a natural career progression for me. The compliments for my first creation encouraged me to design an entire collection, she says.

Dongres first jewellery line,inspired by Mughal grandeur,was launched this month. Titled Pinkcity,it was created in association with Jet Gems. She has partnered with them to bring out nearly 50 designs that,like her bridal line Jaipur Bride,revisit traditional Rajasthani craftsmanship. While I have designed this line,it has been produced by Jet Gems,who specialise in crafting intricate bespoke jewellery, says Dongre.

Fashion designers in increasing numbers are creating jewellery to complement their clothing line. Jewellery brands,on their part,are warming up to the benefits of a brand-designer association the jewellery house translates the designs onto metal using their artisans. Designers benefit from the jewellery brands manufacturing set-up.

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee,for instance,launched Gaja by Sabyasachi,a high-end jewellery line developed with Kolkata-based Shree Ganesh Jewellery,in 2008. More recently,James Ferreira tied up with Gehna Jewellers to roll out a range of cocktail rings and finger jewellery (designs that go beyond the conventional rings). I have wanted to design body jewellery for a while now,but the economics of manufacturing precious jewellery and the lack of technical knowhow isnt easy to deal with. An established brands backing can help realise ones plans, he says.

Couturier Tarun Tahiliani,who recently showcased his first range of bridal jewellery at India Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW) in Delhi,adds that his collaboration with Azva by World Gold Council gave him access to craftsmanship from Junagadh,Jamnagar,Mumbai and Kolkata.

In return,jewellery brands gain fresh perspective on customer preferences through the market understanding of designers. Gautam Ghanasingh,who has partnered with designer Maheka Mirpuri for his label Ghanasingh Be True,emphasises that the partnership signifies a shift in their marketing strategy. Over a century-old brand,we wanted to look beyond our popularity as makers of fine heirlooms to showcase the magic that quality diamonds and pearls can help create in contemporary designs. Mahekas design philosophy,aimed at the woman of today,helps us do that, he says.

Vipin Sharma,Director of Jewellery,World Gold Council,says that the collaboration works well for both parties. Tarun Tahiliani has contemporised gold designs for the modern bride. Being a bridal designer,he is equipped with knowledge about the jewellery that would complement his ensemble, he says.

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The combined brand pull of a known jewellery house and a sought-after designer attracts clientele. Gautam has put up a special section in his store for this line. I am hoping that eventually his loyal clients would go for the bridal package I offer them jewellery and clothing, says Mirpuri.

These associations,the two parties hope,wont be short-term. The World Gold Council has shown Tahilianis collections at the designers expositions before IBFW,Delhi,and now plans to add to the collection by February.

Dongre,too,will regularly launch jewellery lines,crafted under her and Jet Gems supervision.

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