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Big Fish

A landlocked city’s culinary curse is the lack of fresh sea food.

A new Vietnamese fish has taken over the city kitchens. Say hello to the Basa

A landlocked city’s culinary curse is the lack of fresh sea food. There is the ubiquitous sole,and in some mid-level restaurants you might find the silver pomfret,the seer (surmai) and prawns.Only the five star hotels with their huge freezers can afford to stock up on fish from across the world. So if you are tired of the old staples,there’s good news for you. The next time you eat out,look closely at the menu for a fish called Basa or the Vietnamese River Cobbler to cheer you up.

This fresh water catfish caught from the Mekong Delta in South of Vietnam is Delhi’s new favourite. “We first heard of the Basa a year-and-a-half back. We started off with it at the Smokehouse Grill,introducing it at small parties to see how people react to its taste. The texture of the fish is amazing and you can play around with flavours. It has a neutral and subtle flavour and cooks easily. It’s great to work with,” says chef Shamshul Wahid of Smokehouse Grill and Smokehouse Deli,where Basa is served smoked in a pimento puree or with a kiwi and wasabi mix. It’s more Indianised version comes with a coconut chowder. With over 20-22 plates of the fish being dished out each day at the Deli,averaging to about 610 a month,Wahid says he has a winner on hand.

Blanco,another fine-dining eatery at Khan market also places its bets on the new fish. Not only do they serve Basa,but as chef Manav Sharma puts it,“It has replaced the sole fish across all fish food preparations at our restaurant. The meat is sweet and tender. You can try out a whole lot of things with it.”

While the most popular mode of cooking it is to pan sear or steam it,according to chefs,its readiness to adjust well with spices as varied as Indian and Mexican,makes it a great hit. Chef Aloysius D’silva who consults for tony eateries in South Delhi like Tasty Tangles,Double Decker and Sanchos,says,“You can grill,poach and fry this fish. It doesn’t break easily. We use it for our Mexican dishes like Velacruz fish and fish tacos and also dish up an Amritsari macchi with it.”

Getting a steady supply of this imported fish is easy,thanks to a regular availability with suppliers in INA and Defence Colony markets. “It is fresh-frozen directly after it is caught. Basa is available in three varieties,graded as A,B and C depending on the colour and texture of the fish meat. Grade A,with its white texture is the best,” says Sharma. The other determining factor for its popularity is the fact that the fish,though imported,is not very expensive. “It is almost 30-40 per cent cheaper than the sole fish,” adds Sharma.

At the Sheraton New Delhi in Saket,Chef Raj Kamal Chopra says the Basa has been their fastest moving dish. “We don’t use it for the fish tikkas,but it is a good option for a fried fish fillet. It requires less cooking. It is also great for Indian fish curry dishes. One can cook it just as easily at home,” he says,as he prepares an item at the hotel’s restaurant,the Buffet. An added advantage,he says,is the fact that it can be teamed with non-fussy white wines,instead of a high-brow wine,the staple with fish items at restaurants. “In fact,it pairs excellently with a Pinot Grigio or a Reisling or even a local blend like a white Sula,” adds Wahid.

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Clearly it is time to welcome the Basa home.Grilled Basa with chilli orange glaze

Ingredients
:

Basa fish fillets: 250 gm

Salt and lemon juice to taste

Refined flour for dusting

Crushed Pepper: 5 gm

Canned Orange juice: 200 ml

Garlic paste: 5 gm

Olive oil: 30 ml

Butter: 10 gm

A pinch of chilli flakes

Marinate the fish fillets with olive oil,lemon juice,garlic,salt and pepper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Dust with refined flour. Grill the fish on a hot griddle. To make the sauce, reduce the orange juice to half the original quantity and thicken it with cubed butter. Add chilli flakes. Serve the fish with the sauce and steamed vegetables. Courtesy: Sheraton New Delhi Hotel.

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