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This is an archive article published on August 3, 2013

Quiet Couture

On Day Two of PCJ Delhi Couture Week Anamika Khanna’s teased with dhoti skirts while Monisha Jaising brought on the bling

After Anamika Khanna’s show last year at the Delhi Couture Week,many wondered if she would be able to top that. Held at designer store Evoluzione in Mehrauli,the ethereal range of non-blingy couture was a success,as was the presentation — unconventional seating and ramp.

A year later,Khanna managed to evoke similar sentiments on Day Two of PCJ Delhi Couture Week. The off-site show was held at The Leela,Chankyapuri. The old-world charm of the ballroom and a nature-inspired set with trees and plants gave it the feel of an abandoned castle. The silhouettes and colours were signature Khanna and we were more than pleased to see a collection that was familiar,yet so new.

Instead of dhoti pants that she is most known for,Khanna introduced dhoti skirts. Her idea of the modern Indian bride is that of a free woman,who dares to question convention and makes her own rules. Maybe that’s why we spotted a few saris with long,fluid capes,shararas with boyfriend blazers and a colour palette heavy on gold,silver,off-white and black with bursts of yellow,red and purple.

While the range of silhouettes on the runway was expected out of the Kolkata designer,what impressed us most were the fabrics that were created by Khanna herself,from scratch. So what looked like lace was actually her take on chikankari done in a way to give the impression of French lace. Khanna used tiny pearls,intricate thread embroidery and floral motifs on saris,lehengas,skirts and long jackets. The dhoti skirt that turned many heads was inspired by the Maharashtrian Nauvari sari. Even though her clothes exude modernity,their roots are very much Indian.

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