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Journalism of Courage
The morning after the night before is a time for reflection. Waking this week after the 177th Oktoberfest,Müncheners were not alone in nursing a hangover. Although festival-goers downed a record 7m litres of beer this year,Braumeisters are left with a painful headache of their own: the shrinking German appetite for beer. In 1991 the average German quaffed 142 litres of the stuff,but intake has declined every year since. By 2009 German consumption per head had fallen below 110 litres,less than in the Czech Republic,Ireland and Austria. Another fall is expected this year.
An ageing,shrinking population is drinking less. But habits are also changing. Young people have acquired a taste for more exotic or non-alcoholic drinks. Richer people see wine as more upmarket than beer. To the disappointment of many,drinking beer at lunchtime is frowned upon. Even among the traditionally hard-boozing middle-aged,health concerns have curbed drinking.
Germany has not fallen out of love with beer. It is the worlds fifth-largest market,and by far the biggest in Europe. But for the brewers,a gentle long-term decline looks inevitable. In 20 years time consumption may fall to as little as 80 litres per head,predicts Marc-Oliver Huhnholz of the German Brewers Association. More and more breweries will have to close, he says. We are not sure where the journey will go.
The Economist Newspaper Limited 2010
