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This is an archive article published on May 1, 2011

How Far is Transfagarasan?

From Laos to Romania,Yunnan to Amasra,three off-beat international trails

From Laos to Romania,Yunnan to Amasra,three off-beat international trails

The Golden Triangle

Chiang Sen Thailand Ton Pheung Laos Doe Mao Salong Thai-Myanmar border

When a traveller hears of Thailand,its almost always the beach that pops up in the mind. But theres a lot more to the Kingdom of Smiles. Like a trip to the Golden Triangle,which was once home to notorious opium dens. It was at this junction of Thailand,Laos and Myanmar that a bulk of the worlds opium was produced and later transported to the rest of the world. Thankfully,thats no more. But its now a definitive tourist route.

Fly into Chiang Mai in north Thailand from Bangkok. This is a no-frills town; youre likely to just pop into the sprawling bus station and pop out with a ticket to Sop Ruak,a sleepy town,which hosts the striking confluence of the Nam Ruak and Mekong rivers. From Sop Ruak,its a journey further north into the town of Chiang Saen,one corner of the Golden Triangle.

The town today is a testament to the progress made in curbing the drug trade. Once one of Asias most prized opium dens,it now has only an opium museum,tattered and run-down,as reminder of its past. Climb to a nearby hill for a spectacular view of the borders of three countries. Its also home to 14th century ruins: youll find ample Buddha statues dotting the town.

For those who want to limit their stay to northern Thailand,we recommend a boat trip down the Kok River; dotted on the shore are ethnic Karen villages and the feel is more Burmese than Thai. There are countless trekking agencies that offer treks in nearby rainforests.

From Chiang Saen,you can jump aboard a ferry and cross over into Ton Pheung in the Laos. Visa processing is hassle-free here,and overland crossings are easy. There is no better time to visit Laos; its still undiscovered enough for touts to be scarce,and undeveloped enough for cultures to remain intact. Laotians are one of the friendliest people in all of Southeast Asia. For those interested in wildlife,we suggest making Northern Laos the base for discovery. The province for hikers,ecotrekking and thrill-seekers is Luang Nam Tha. There are plenty of trekking guides here,and cheap hotels dot the main thoroughfare.

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Sun worshippers and beach bums need not be disappointed. Laos offers the sun and the sea with a twist. A five-hour bus ride from Ton Pheung is the Song River. A boat ride down the river takes you to Luang Prabang,a place written off by most travellers.

But further down is Vang Vieng,one of Laoss best-kept secrets. Wed like to call it the land of excess parties and magic mushrooms await the young at heart and hippie wanderers. The most popular activity is tubing simply a ride along the river in a giant tube-like boat. As soon as you see a spot for refreshment or one showing the latest episode of Friends shake your hands in the air and a Laotian will throw over a rope for you to come over.

Travel into Myanmar from the Golden Triangle is not advisable unless you have checked the security conditions. Those who are seeking a quick photo opportunity can head to Doi Mae Salong. This is the Thai-Burmese border.

The disparities in development are stark,as a paved road leads you back to the Kingdom of Smiles,and an unpaved adventure awaits you in the Land of the Junta. The last we travelled,the outpost of Mae Sai was safe for travellers and a fusion of Thai-Burmese cuisine whipped by the Akha and Yao hill tribesmen was divine.

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Getting there: Fly Thai Airways to Bangkok. There are daily flights from the Thai capital to Chiang Mai. Or,if you are on a budget,simply take a bus.

Inside Yunnan

Kunming Dali Lijiang

So you want to discover China,but are confused about where to start? Heres what we suggest. The Chinese province of Yunnan offers a taste of history,breathtaking views of nature,and one of the most bohemian scenes a modern traveller can find. This province is special for another reason: it is home to a third of Chinas ethnic minorities.

Start off in Kunming,the largest city of Yunnan. Kunming is everything Beijing isnt. Its relaxed and laid-back,though rapid development is pushing it towards becoming another Shenzhen. It is Chinas most open city. A visit to the cafes/bars of Speakeasy,Halfway House and the Box will cure you of your scepticism. Watch Chinese musicians jam with expats,listen to extensive debates on philosophy and remind yourself that you are on holiday and will have to leave.

Your next stop is Dali,a city sandwiched between mountains. Its also home to the best pizza joint in China, the Bad Monkey,where a day spent can mean encounters with writers,musicians,and Lonely Planet journalists out to explore the final frontier of the east. You can even connect to Facebook without the server tripping here. Countless expats call Dali home and with visa extension at the Public Security Bureau as easy as pie,it will be challenging to leave. Book readings are held in the Hall,a popular cafe,and there are several small theatres that show world movies. For those looking for a touch of culture,the beautiful Congsheng Temples are not to be missed.

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The small town of Lijiang is old and rickety,its streets cobbled and worn by the constant throng of tourists. But old-world charm still exists and for those looking for proof,one need not venture further beyond the Old Market Square. This used to be the home of Naxi traders and you may catch a unique dialect if you listen carefully. The Naxis are one of the few tribes who continue to worship their deity and followed their customs,despite the disapproval of Chinese authorities. A day trip away is the Tiger Leaping Gorge,a must-visit for trekkers for its beautiful,unspoilt views. Hike through a mountain path that runs through farming villages for an escape from civilisation.

Getting There: Take an Air China flight to Beijing from Delhi/Mumbai; from the Chinese capital,there are three flights a day to Kunming. Alternatively,take a train from Beijing for a fraction of the price,though it will take you two days.

Along the Black Sea

Romania Ukraine Turkey

Looking for a different vacation? How about exploring miles of white beaches,ancient monuments,modern-day resorts and walking through history lessons? Were talking about the less-travelled western coast of the Black Sea.

Start from Romania no,not the birth place of Bram Stokers Dracula. The Romania we recommend is that of Eugène Ionesco,the father of the Theatre of Absurd. Visit the Romanian National Opera,in the capital Bucharest,for an insight into the best Romanian literature,or visit the painted monasteries in Bukovina,located in the Carapathian Mountains. The most famous Voronet Monastery was built to honour Saint George,when the 16th century Prince of Moldavia defeated the Ottoman Turks. It is especially known for its intense coloured frescos.

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To get a taste of royalty,visit the 160-room Peles Castle located in Sinaia 40 km from the city of Brasov. Built with wood,bricks and marble,this 19th century castle has seven terraces,and a luxurious interior decorated with paintings,statues,Murano crystal chandeliers,German stained-glass windows,and a vast collection of weapons.

But if youre in the mood for some action and even if youre not,its almost sinful to skip it,take a drive on the Worlds Best Road the Transfagarasan Road,personally vouched for by Top Gear host Jeremy Clarkson. A global attraction for driving enthusiasts,it has the most dramatic turns and breathtaking views.

The only buzz kill the speed limit is 40 km per hour.

The Black Sea is very deep 1,271m at the centre and less salty than other oceans making it a better beach destination. From Romania,you can trace the coastline of the Black Sea on to Odessa in Ukraine. Its mild climate,warm waters and sunlit beaches make it a perfect getaway. We also recommend buying traditional artwork in Kyiv at Andriyivsky Uzviz,but keep in mind that some items of historical importance are barred from being taken out of the country and can be confiscated. Use the cheap local transport,a mini-bus called Marshrutka,and visit some of the popular beaches nearby the Dolphin beach with a dolphinarium or the nudist Chkalovsky beach.

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Caught between Europe and Asia,the Black Sea Coast of Turkey is a must-see full of alpine forests,tea plantations and the worlds oldest cherry orchards. The cities of Sinop,Amasra,and Trabzon are never crowded,because of the grey skies and chilling waters,but are worth a visit.

Getting There: Fly Jet Airways,Lufthansa,Turkish Airlines or Tarom Romanian Airlines to the capital Bucharest. Trains connect the rest of the country very well,and four-wheel drive cars are easily available to rent. 

 

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