Walk this way

Models no longer need to hang up their boots when their careers come to an end. Now, they can still be a part of the world of fashion. In fa...

Models no longer need to hang up their boots when their careers come to an end. Now, they can still be a part of the world of fashion. In fact, strangely enough, when the time comes to retire, they can end up calling the shots. A whole new breed of fashion choreographers drawing from a breed of ex models has cropped up and today, they have ended up dominating the ramp. Names like Mehr Jesia, Marc Robinson and Achla Sachdev are now becoming better known for their behind-the-scenes work rather than their front-of-camera campaigns.

This hustle and bustle behind the glamour business has come to Mumbai after a long wait. There was a time when there were only one or two well-known choreographers. First there were the Spencer sisters, then there was Jeanie Naoroji. In the 8217;80s there were Shanti and Sangeeta Chopra. With Hemant Trivedi and Lubna Adams, the first winds of change began to blow. And the mid-8217;90s saw a flood of new faces in the business.

It is not surprising that so many models are looking atchoreography as an alternative profession there is big money to be made. A top choreographer can earn as much Rs one lakh for putting a show together. quot;Fashion shows are still seen as entertainment and add glamour to an event,quot; says Lubna.

What is giving the new kids on the block room to grow is the fact that the previous Czars of Choreography have decided to either slow down or call it quits. Lubna has decided not to take on any more shows. An ex-model, she has been in the business eight years and now wants out. quot;I have done all the top shows in the country and feel I have nowhere to grow,quot; says she. Hemant Trivedi too has decided to cut down on the number of shows he puts together.

quot;I will not do shows sponsored by a cigarette company. I will only do shows that interest me. I say no8217; to 90 per cent of the offers that come my way,quot; he says. A sentiment that Lubna agrees with. quot;I will not do a fashion show at a race course no matter how much money I am offered. People do not come to a race course tosee the clothes. Then it becomes just as a piece of entertainment,quot; she says. And even Sangeeta Chopra who has been in the business for nearly 20 years she did her first show at the age of 15 is shifting her focus to her design career what with plans of opening a retail outlet in Colaba, later this year.

That is good news for the new kids on the block. With the trio out of the way, there is more room for the debutantes. For instance, Mehr Jesia8217;s entry into the world of choreography three years ago started with the high-profile Ensemble show. Early this year, she also handled the big-budget L8217;Oreal show. Marc Robinson entered this field by chance, nearly two years ago he stood in when the official choreographer did not show up and has now bagged the prestigious Levi8217;s show. Achla Sachdev who is as old as Marc in the business, has raked up steady profits doing trade shows. These models-turned-directors feel that their success comes from their close association with the world of fashion. Says Marc,quot;You need to be from the fashion industry. To be a good choreographer you have to be able to walk better than the models.quot;

But Marc also points out that being better than the rest can pose a problem. quot;Though I still do ramp shows for Sangeeta and Hemant, the Delhi choreographers have stopped using me as they are scared I will take their work away,quot; says he. To avoid that, Lubna gave up modelling as soon as she entered the field. quot;You have to concentrate on what you do,quot; she says.

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Achla, on the other hand, makes the distinction clear. quot;You are a model when you model and when you do a show, you are a choreographer,quot; she says. And if that rubs friends and colleagues the wrong way, well, work comes first. Says Lubna, quot;When you do a show there is no such thing as a friend. You cannot just use your friends for your shows and sometimes you have to shout at them if they are doing a bad job.quot;

Not that there is a lot of bad blood. Despite competition and a new entrant nearly every day, opportunities areabundant. quot;All our styles are different and there is room for all of us,quot; says Lubna.