Setting store by grand design

Jaya actually started her career in the South Pacific Islands, working for the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation as an economist. Having completed an undergraduate course from the London School of Economics, she then did MBA in America and LLB in Mumbai. Though she was not sure about joining the business, charting unseen territory had become second nature to her.

So when she found herself missing civilisation, Jaya returned to the bright lights of Mumbai at around the same time when Vama was moving to its new premises at the Kanchanjunga Estate on Peddar Road. Around 20,000 sq ft, initially it was almost empty. Now it is bursting at the seams and may even be enlarged.

What contributed to this full house was the entry of Benetton to India in 1989. Jaya met the Benetton representative who wanted to bring their label to India. They got on so well that Benetton chose Vama to be the first in Mumbai to stock their range. It was an instant success. quot;During sales there was so much of a rush that we had to lock our gates. People would be fighting to get in and some would even jump over the wall,quot; says Jaya. It is no wonder that Vama is Benetton8217;s largest-selling store in the world. quot;People in India had been deprived of foreign labels for too long,quot; adds Jaya.

After Benetton, the other labels just followed. Today, Vama stocks Ferre, Levi8217;s, Lacoste, Reebok, Nike and the recently introduced shoes from one of America8217;s best-known brands, Floursheim. Now, Jaya has to turn foreign labels away.

But exhibiting in Vama does not necessarily mean instant success. Ted Lapidus and Pierre Cardin are two examples of brands gone wrong. quot;Pierre Cardin failed because it tried to copy Benetton, and Lapidus was not priced right,quot; says Jaya. She believes that the key to success is marketing. quot;The reason why Reebok and Nike have been successful is that they are internationally well-known brands,quot; she says.

Jaya not only introduced western wear to Vama but also updated ethnic wear. She met Rohit Khosla at a party, who also introduced her to Rohit Bal. As a retailer, when she found that her customers wanted designer desi wear, she started stocking it in Vama. And the chance meeting with Rohit Bal led to her stocking J J Valaya, Arjun Khanna, Gitanjali Kashyap and Bobby amp; Manju Grover, too. In addition, there is the Vama label which has casual outfits on sale for under Rs 1,000. quot;It make sense to cater to everyone,quot; says Jaya.Besides, Vama is surrounded by the homes of India8217;s ultra-rich, and therefore they cater to rather exclusive tastes. Some of the clothes cost upto Rs 2 lakh, and they also specially tailor exclusives for those who want to stand out.

But fashion is not all that Vama is about. Rubbing shoulders with running shoes and lehangas, is the newly-introduced line of Ford cars. And later this year, the show window will also sport BMWs. For Rs 23 lakh you can drive away with the latest 5 series model. Mercedes-Benz8217;s bad luck in India does not worry this savvy businesswoman. Says Jaya, quot;It is a matter of marketing. Mercedes was trying to sell a 10-year-old model. Indians are not dumb,quot; she says. And neither is BMW. When their representative walked in to the store, he was floored. Said he, quot;If you can sell an outfit for Rs 50,000, then this is the perfect place for our product.quot;

With business booming, it comes as no surprise that Jaya spends most of her time at work. Though she does find time for some recreation. Her annual holiday is one of her greatest pleasures. Last year she spent two weeks sailing off the coast in Turkey. And once a year, she definitely travels abroad to either New York, London or Milan. But this ends up being work too with Jaya studying shop displays and fashion trends. She wants to bring Versace, Ralph Lauren and Armani to India, but does not believe the market here is ready yet. India is reputed to be one of the least advanced countries in Asia when it comes to fashion. quot;Even Manila is apparently ahead of Mumbai. I have heard that even the rickshaw drivers wear Levi8217;s there,quot; she says. And even Indian fashion is behind the times, according to her. quot;The problem is that Indian fashion designers are not real businessmen,quot; she says.

She estimates that it will be another five years before India is ready for the really big names in the fashion fray. But one thing she is sure of 8212; when India is ready, Vama will be leading the way.