
Shah Jehan is caught in a conundrum. The emperor wants to build a memorial to his beloved wife but the ambitious project gets stuck in the bureaucratic labyrinth. Time passes as one department pushes the file to another, putting spokes at every turn. Officers in the building department want bribes while the ministry of water resources quotes a heavy amount for a clearance certificate. Then come the habitual spoilers 8212; environmental activists who fear the topography of Agra will be changed forever if it8217;s allowed to come up. The monument never gets built.
This is the story of the critically acclaimed Hindi play Taj Mahal Ka Tender A tender for the Taj Mahal. As the farce that8217;s being promoted as the Taj8217;s 350 year celebrations is enacted in Agra, I strongly recommend this 8220;theatre of the absurd8221; to the unimaginative, red-tape riddled bureaucracy. If the babus watch it, they will realise why bureaucracy is another name for sloth and corruption.
I don8217;t complain that they tripped on the exact age of the monument. Historians, including some paid pipers of the badshah, gave different dates of its construction. It is the lacklustre celebrations that cause pain.
The Taj is not just a king8217;s fancy. It8217;s a nation8217;s pride, love8217;s ultimate tribute. It8217;s poetry in stone. Poet Shakeel Badayuni8217;s line has entered our psyche: 8220;Ek shehenshah ne banakar haseen Taj Mahal/Duniya ko mohabbat ki nishaani di hai By building the beautiful Taj Mahal/A king has left a symbol of love for the world. Mark Shakeel8217;s description: he uses the word duniya, not India, emphasising the Taj8217;s global appeal.
I still remember an afternoon I spent in the late 1980s, soaking in the sight of the monument on the banks of the Yamuna. Accompanying my father, I entered the Taj complex just after its gates opened in the morning. For hours I wandered around it, forgetting hunger and thirst.
A guide wanted to show me around. Brushing him aside, like a romantic who doesn8217;t want to be shaken off his reverie, I gazed at the glazed domes, the minarets. As I neared the two graves, embalmed in embroidered precious stones, I felt I heard the whispers of the two royal lovers. I wanted to shout and thank Shah Jehan. But decency and decorum demanded I stay calm.
I disagreed then, and do so now, with Sahir Ludhianvi who memorably lamented: 8220;Ek shehenshah ne daulat ka sahara lekar/Udaya hai hum garibon ki mohabbat ka mazaaq8217;8217; A king by dint of his wealth/Has pooh-poohed the poor man8217;s love. A quintessential communist, Sahir found exploitation of the poor in the Taj. For him, it was a symbol of wealth and waste. But Sahir forgot that even the poor need dreams. The Taj fires a hundred dreams.
My father took me to the Taj. Now I want to take my daughter there. Will she also feel the way I felt when I first saw it?