Mr Afanasy was here

A slender granite column in Alibaug stands proud in the memory of Afanasy Nikitin, the first Russian to set foot in India

WHEN the 14-member expedition tracing the route taken by Afanasy Nikitin, the 15th century Russian traveller, ends its journey in Mumbai this month, they might just go a few kilometres further to add a befitting and logical conclusion to the stupendous exercise.

For standing tall in the grounds of SRT School, Revadanda, Alibaug is the only structure in the country dedicated to the 8220;first Russian to set foot on Indian soil8221;. Twenty minutes on the catamaran from Mumbai is Alibaug, where their hero landed on his dhow 500 years ago.

Flagged off on November 12 from Nikitin8217;s hometown Tver in Russia, a group of 14 Indians 8212; historians, bureaucrats and economists 8212; will follow Nikitin8217;s route spanning Russia, Iran, Armenia and India to see for themselves the places so colourfully described by him in his travelogue Voyage Beyond Three Seas. The only difference this time, the explorers are on SUVs.

The attempt is to combine adventure with an exploration of the route, rich in oil and gas, that might soon be opened for trade. Besides, of course, the strengthening of relations between the two countries.

But if there8217;s any place the Russians recognise as Nikitin8217;s home in India, it8217;s Revdanda in Alibaug, where the traveller is believed to have first set foot when he sailed to Chaul next door in 1469. And this is why the Russian Consulate laid the foundation stone for a memorial in 2000 to commemorate 100 years of the Russian Consulate in India. The memorial took two years to complete and was inaugurated in 2002.

Four years later, the slender black granite column has become synonymous with Russia amongst the local populace, as well as scores of travellers and tourists who now have an added stop in their itinerary while visiting the beach town of Alibaug. 8220;Many tourists, especially Russians, come here specifically to see this memorial. It8217;s a matter of great pride for us,8221; says principal DC Bansode whose school is responsible for the upkeep of the memorial on behalf of the Konkan Education Society KES.

8220;They wanted a place where the monument would have life, where it would not lapse into oblivion like memorials tend to. What better place than our school which is so near the jetty where the traveler first landed?8221; says Ramachandran Shewale, assistant headmaster.

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Officials from the Russain consulate drop in about eight to ten times a year, usually unannounced, which explains the care taken in the upkeep. Inscriptions on four sides of the column in Russian, Marathi, Hindi and English laud the contribution of the travelers who opened 8220;8230;the first glorious page in the chronicle of Russian-Indian friendship8221;.

And so, Nikitin lives on. Nilesh Naik of Class XII and 12-year-old Maneesha Gaur don8217;t really know Nikitin so well but they know he has to do with travel. What more could Mr Afanasy have wanted!

And the reel journey

Yet another place where memories of the intrepid traveller are conserved is the National Film Archives of India in Pune. Tucked away in shelves are bound volumes of film magazines whose yellowed pages bear interesting details of a film made in 1957, based on the travels of Nikitin. Titled Pardesi and starring actors like Nargis, Balraj Sahni, Prithviraj Chauhan, Padmini, Jairaj and the Russian actor Oleg Streezhnov who plays Afanasy, the film has the distinction of being the first joint Indo-Soviet production. It was co-produced by Naya Sansar International and Mosfilm Studios with KA Abbas and VM Pronin as directors. The film was criticised for not showing the Indian ethos in the right light 8220;It is impossible for a Maharashtrian peasant girl to fall in love with a white-skinned foreigner at first sight,8221; said one critic or its geography but the film did seem to break new ground for its scenic photography, music and a worldwide premier. A contest was held too and the winner promised a free trip to Moscow. For now, Miditech is filming the expedition retracing the travels.

Sunanda Mehta

Sunanda Mehta is the Resident Editor of The Indian Express in Pune. She is a distinguished journalist, columnist, and author with over three decades of experience in the media industry. Educational background: A merit-lister in her 12 th in CBSE (5th rank in Humanities) Sunanda stood first in History in the Board for which she was awarded the Dr Tarachand Gold Medal. She is a triple-graduate with a Bachelor of Arts (History Honours) from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, Bachelor of Education, Delhi University (on scholarship) and Bachelor of Communication and Journalism, University of Pune. Professional Background Role: As Resident Editor, she oversees the Pune edition of The Indian Express, managing local news coverage, investigative features, and editorial direction for the city. Author: She is an accomplished author, known for her biographies. Her notable books include: The Extraordinary Life and Death of Sunanda Pushkar published by Pan Macmillan (2019). The book was long-listed for the Atta Galatta award for nonfiction and Auther award for best debut author. Majestic Musings - Translation of poems from 100 year old Badshaian from Punjabi to English (2023) Behind the Big Screen- the untold stories of child actors published by Bloomsbury India (2024) Focus Areas: While Sunanda has reported on various subjects from civic to political to investigative and crime, her forte remains long-form human-interest stories, heritage and gender issues. Core Column: "Against All Odds" Sunanda curates and writes a signature series titled "Against All Odds," which profiles individuals who have overcome significant personal, medical, or professional challenges. Recent notable articles (2025) The Story of Dr. Harinder Dhaliwal (July 2025): A Pune AFMC topper who became a neurologist in Canada despite becoming paraplegic. Jayoo Patwardhan’s Cancer Journey (Jan 2025): How the National Film Award-winning designer defeated cancer. Partha Iyengar’s Emergency mid-air (Aug 2025): The story of how Gartner’s India head survived a massive heart attack during a long-haul flight. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent reportage continues to explore deep personal narratives and Pune’s socio-environmental landscape: 1. Personal Narratives & Closure "'I grieved for him 10 years after his murder, found closure to unsolved case'" (Dec 14, 2025): A poignant feature on Vineet Alurkar, son of the late Pune music legend Suresh Alurkar, and how digitizing his father’s collection helped him heal. "A 40-day journey home: how Christopher Benninger's partner gave him the gift of memories" (Nov 23, 2025): A moving tribute to the late acclaimed architect Christopher Benninger and his final trip to the US. "'After 38 years I finally met my biological mother'" (Sept 28, 2025): Chronicling the journey of an adopted daughter from Zurich searching for her roots in Pune. 2. Civic & Heritage "'Vetal Tekdi belongs to common citizens'" (Oct 20, 2025): An interview with environmental activist Dr. Sushma Date on the community-led protection of Pune’s vital green lungs. "'Military village' Apshinge recalls living through war days" (Aug 12, 2025): A report from a village in Maharashtra where nearly every household has a member in the armed forces, focusing on their legacy and current anxieties. 3. High-Profile Commentary & Investigations "Malegaon blast acquittals: 'I was expecting this verdict'" (July 31, 2025): An interview with former special public prosecutor Rohini Salian following the controversial acquittals. "Grounded, license cancelled... she decided to soar higher" (March 30, 2025): The story of Dr. Harpreet A De Singh, Air India’s first woman pilot from 1988, and her transition to leadership and meditation. Signature Style Sunanda Mehta is known for her empathetic storytelling. Unlike standard news reporting, her features often read like narrative non-fiction, focusing on the psychological and emotional resilience of her subjects. One of her articles in The Indian Express titled 'The Quality of Mercy' was converted into a film Rubaru Roshini produced by actor Aamir Khan. She is a strong advocate for Pune's heritage and environment, frequently using her platform to amplify citizen-led movements. X (Twitter): @sunandamehta and @ExpressPune ... Read More