Ga Ga Over Goa

Visions of white beaches, retired shacks, feni hangovers and swaying palms drive truckloads of tourists to the tiny Goan state every year. T...

Visions of white beaches, retired shacks, feni hangovers and swaying palms drive truckloads of tourists to the tiny Goan state every year. This year, with Panjim8217;s selection as the permanent venue of the International Film Festival India IFFI, the capital has transformed itself. The heritage houses have been renovated and a new promenade has come up along the waterfront flanking the Mandovi river.

The Fort Aguada and the Taj Holiday Village THV are designated venues for VIP delegates. A fleet of speedboats and two yachts, courtesy beer baron Vijay Mallya, will carry delegates across the river to the city8217;s Kala Academy and multiplex. There are many small, private parties planned around the events, including one hosted by the Taj Hotels and Mallya at his Kingfisher Villa. Artist Subodh Kerkar has planned an installation of terracotta figures, shells and lights, stretching half a kilometre along Miramar beach. In another vein, the exposition of St Francis Xavier, Goa8217;s patron saint, begins today and will be on till January 2. So whether it8217;s world-class films, novenas, private parties like the annual Jimmy Gazdar do or just the beaches that you desire, there8217;s no hotter destination this winter than Goa.

Schmooze and Booze
Even if Goa8217;s on your yearly getaway list, its bars and shacks come and go faster than the crowds. For instance, if you partied at Bonk or Utopia last year, this season they8217;re both out. So update your list with some old and new hot spots. This season8217;s favourite lounge bars are Congo, close to THV, and the stylish Lotus Pond. Two old haunts are The Bar and Baga8217;s Banana Republic. Calamari in Candolim is the latest in beach shacks.

In the clubbing scene, Tito8217;s, the mother of all night outs, just got bigger. It8217;s now a mind-boggling soundproofed space, complete with state-of-the-art sound systems and funky lighting. Club Cubana, on the Arpora hills, is billed as a night club in the sky. A multi-level structure, Cubana contains a swimming pool, gardens, dance floor and lounge.

All Aboard
Who would have thought gambling would be a pastime in this Catholic town? But Goa houses Caravela, India8217;s only floating casino. The large casino boat makes for an unusual evening out with gaming, slot machines and live entertainment. The entrance fee includes unlimited drinks and a buffet.

Staying In
This season you8217;ll have a variety of new options to rest your party-worn heads. Two new resorts have just opened in the north8212;Casa Britona on the Mapusa river, and Panchavatti on the island of Corjuem. Both are about a half-hour8217;s drive from Mapusa and 45 minutes from the main beaches of the area. Being boutique properties, there are only a handful of rooms, all with river views.

Another retreat in Arpora is Presa De Goa, run by Luxembourg native Edouard Speck, a seasoned hotelier who8217;s worked extensively in Turkey. Presa is run like a country home and houses Goa8217;s only Turkish restaurant, The Turkish Grill. Up in the ghats, on the border of Goa, Karnataka and Maharashtra, is Wildernest. Located on 300 acres of woods, the landscape and comfy log cottages are the main attraction. From the infinity swimming pool, there are sweeping views of Goa and the sea beyond.

Among the older digs, Fort Aguada and THV still rule, but for something ultra exclusive, it8217;s got to be the Aguada Hermitage. Less obvious selections are Pousada Tauma and Nilaya, which harbour the lion8217;s share of the city8217;s celebrities.

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OFF TRACK

Lloyd8217;s A mother-and-son team have opened this tiny eatery in a Candolim garage. You may have to look a bit to find it, but the food makes up for the lack of ambience. Try the Pork Vindaloo, Sorpotel and Sausage Pau. Just the way your granny would have made them had she been Goan. Opposite Rustler8217;s Steak House and near Tarkar Ice Factory
Viva Panjim Tucked away in the small lanes of Fontainhas, Viva Panjim is so tiny it can barely seat 10, which is great since you feel as if you8217;re eating on someone8217;s verandah, watching the world go by. Call 0832-2422405
Cajueiro8217;s Named after the fast disappearing cashew grove where it is located, Cajueiro8217;s offers authentic Goan/Portuguese food. Try the Veg Caldine, stuffed crabs and the house speciality, pomfret stuffed with prawns. Off the NH 17, in Porvorim, near the Goa Assembly House

Pousada is located right in the heart of Calangute and Nilaya, the pioneer of Goa8217;s boutique hotel boom, is perched on Arpora hills. Their New Year parties are legendary, and worth every bit of the effort and money it takes to be there. Two years ago, Claude Challe of Buddha Bar brought in the New Year. The resort8217;s 12 suites are a favourite of many Hollywood stars, including Richard Gere.

Two of the most prominent fixtures in the Goan hospitality industry are old family homes and forts. One of the best examples of the former is Elsewhere, photographer Denzil Sequeira8217;s family beach house at Mandrem. Located between a creek and the Arabian Sea, it dates back to 1886 and offers three bedrooms outfitted in rustic best8212;red cement floors, antique furniture and four-poster beds. Further north, almost on the Goa-Maharashtra border, is Tiracol Fort. Run by Hari and Claudia Ajwani of Nilaya, this superbly located property has seven suites, all looking on to the main attraction.

The Grub Guide
Permanent fixtures like A Reverie, J038;A8217;s, Fiesta and Le Restaurant dish out contemporary European cuisine. Britto8217;s and Souza Lobo are popular for Goan food. The Banyan Tree at the Taj serves fiery Thai cuisine. Across the river, near the IFFI venue, is the Goa Marriott resort with the new Waterfront restaurant and the regular favourite, Simply Fish. For celebrity watchers, Bon Appetit, the seafood restaurant on the small stretch between Fort Aguada and Kingfisher Villa, is a great vantage point to spot a famous mug.

Cheap Frills
The original Anjuna flea market is almost a tradition in Goa. What started out decades ago as a beach-side market where hippies sold their trinkets and Western clothes for food and local produce, is now an organised affair.The night markets are more selective, there are two: Mackie8217;s in Little Baga and the more popular and larger Ingo8217;s at Arpora. Both start at about 8 pm and offer trinkets, clothes, art, fabric, lampshades, drinks and a variety of food from German breads to sushi. And for those who like their flea markets to be slightly more tame, THV has one with great food and select buys.

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Contacts
A Reverie: 98231 74927; J038;A8217;s: 0832-2282364; Le Restaurant: 9822121712; Pousada Tauma: 2279061; Nilaya Hermitage: 2276793; Fiesta: 98221 04512; Lila Cafe: 2279843; Cavala/ Banana Republic: 2276090; Brittos8217;: 2277331; Bon Appetit: 9822102240; Joet8217;s 038; Coconut Creek: 2555036; Martin8217;s Corner: 2721391/2880413