Cheese Tease

Paneer, the often-quoted Indian cheese, is a soft, pressed cheese that is consumed fresh and cannot be stored. Although it is the most popular cheese in India, it leaves consumers wanting more. Indian consumers have, undeniably, shown their interest in trying different cheeses, exemplified by Amul, one of the largest dairy firms, to introduce their own version of Emmental and Gouda cheese. However, most European cheeses use the enzyme Rennet, for coagulation of milk, and since it is produced in the stomach of cows, it is non-vegetarian and therefore artificial vegetarian substitutes are used by Amul.

Although Indian consumers have, over the past few years, become discerning consumers of cheese, there is an almost snobbish preference for imported cheese. Indigo Deli, Godrej Nature8217;s Basket and Santeacute;, three delicatessens Nature8217;s Basket is a store that serve a wide range of cheeses, don8217;t stock any Indian cheese at all. 8220;Our customers walk into our restaurant and expect a certain level of quality and flavour,8221; remarks Chetan Patel, manager at Indigo Deli.

Asked about Indian imitation cheeses, Hansu Pardiwala spokesperson of RR Oomerbhoy, one of the largest importers of foodstuff, including Boursin cheese, states: 8220;The product is not really comparable with the original but since the price is quite low, the consumer doesn8217;t really expect to get the same quality as the original.8221; RR Oomerbhoy sells only imported cheeses. 8220;The Indian consumer is more familiar with processed cheese8212; specialised cheeses is a niche market. Consumer education is necessary to create awareness.8221; Thus, demand would hopefully lead to more Indian cheeses being made8212;quite visibly as small cheese makers, such as Flander8217;s in Delhi and Auroville from Pondicherry, have been sprouting all over the country.

Hampi Wuthrich, a Swiss cheese maker, has been living in India for 32 years and making cheese for the past four, using fresh milk from the 50-odd mountain cows he owns. He thinks that 8220;there is still a lack of a cheese culture, and by and large Indian consumers are still not as open-minded as to try complex cheeses8221; However, one would think otherwise, given that he has many loyal consumers8212;several of whom reside in Mumbai8212;who buy cheese from his farm in Manali. He supplies a Vecherin-like cheese to the

Four Seasons Hotel in Worli, but tries not to imitate any particular Swiss cheese, trying to make cheese with his own peculiar style.

Although he hasn8217;t gained any formal training in cheese-making, Wuthrich attributes his skill to the cheese-making culture he grew up with in Emmental. Most importantly though, he concentrates on quality and ensures that the cheese is stored for six months, up to even two years, until it matures to perfection. 8220;The challenge lies in making cheese from raw milk rather than pasteurised milk, especially during the monsoon when weather conditions make it difficult to standardise the cheese.8221;

Since cheese requires cool storage conditions, he thinks it is difficult ensuring good quality after production until the cheese reaches the consumer. 8220;Cheese is a delicate product which requires special handling and tight cold-chain logistics and proper in-store storage,8221; says Pardiwala.

But a growing interest seems to be ironing out all creases and better cheese is slowly being made available.