Travelling suitcase: The sum of all delights

Sham Shui Po in Hong Kong is edgy and dynamic, dotted with dimsum joints and shopping havens.

One for the stars: Michelin-starred Kung Wo Bean Curd Factory (Credit: Irfan Nabi)

Kowloon, situated towards the north of Victoria Harbour, one gets the taste of the city in its authentic, and edgier, glory. A hotspot for those who want to explore the city’s shopping and dining avenues, Sham Shui Po is quintessential Hong Kong.

Sham Shui Po, which means deep-water pier in Cantonese, is a reflection of the Hong Kong that evolved from mid-20th century. One of the earliest areas to be developed in the city limit, it is also the densest. Its residential buildings — marked by distinct architecture and mostly run by the state — are intertwined with marketplaces. They stand like little islands surrounded by a cobweb of lanes. Popularly known as caged houses with matchbox windows, they are home to thousands of migrant workers from Shanghai and Guangdong provinces. What draws many to Sham Shui Po is its array of Michelin-starred dimsum joints. In the morning, I see a large crowd of locals and tourists, eagerly waiting in front of the closed Tim Ho Wan, the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant on Fuk Wing Street. Here, a fine meal costs just HK$ 50 (about Rs 450). The restaurant founder Chef Mak Kwai Pui, 57, who sometimes drops by to cook, is one of the best-known traditional dimsum artists in the world, having perfected the craft over 42 years.

Deciding on a lunch menu is tough. The range of dishes available at the 24-hour Cha Chaan Tengs (tea restaurants) or Hong Kong-style old cafés is endless — tofu, stewed veggies, pork knuckle, liver noodles, barbequed duck, fish ball soup, beef and egg sandwiches, and more. For desserts, there are silky smooth bean curd puddings, puffs, deep-fried tofu and homemade sugar-free soymilk.

Story continues below this ad

Google Map guides me to Lau Sum Kee Noodles, a café which opened its doors in 1956. Its owner, Lau Fat Cheong, believes in carrying forward the tradition of mixing the noodle dough with a heavy bamboo pole. I pick an enormous meal of lo mein (dish with egg noodles), with shrimp roe on the side. And for desserts, I opt for silken rich bean curd pudding at Kung Wo Bean Curd Factory, the Michelin-listed street food joint now in its 69th year.

Not too far is Bead Street (Yu Chau Street), the hub of sewing supplies for the textile and accessories industries. The stores sell beads of wood, glass, paper, silk, threads, etc. Next is Button Street (Ki Lung Street), and its cousin the Ribbon Street (Nam Cheong Street), integral to Hong Kong’s textile industry. And for the fashionistas, Yen Chow Street Hawker Bazaar and Cheung Sha Wan Fashion Road are designed to delight.

Nilosree Biswas is a Mumbai-based filmmaker and writer.

Tags:
Eye 2019

Men who opened fire outside actor Disha Patani’s home killed in encounter in Ghaziabad

Cities3 hr ago

Two men belonging to the Rohit Godara-Goldy Brar Gang were killed in an encounter in Ghaziabad, suspected to be involved in the firing outside Disha Patani's residence. The duo, identified as Ravindra and Arun, were wanted in multiple cases and were spotted by the police through CCTV footage. UP CM Yogi Adityanath had directed for a speedy investigation and strict action against the perpetrators.

View all shorts

Live Blog