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This is an archive article published on October 26, 2013

Sunny Side Up

Chef Bernard Hermeneglido brings his special menu of quintessential Goan dishes to the city.

Chef Bernard Hermeneglido is a man of few words. Dressed in an immaculate white coat and chef’s hat,Hermeneglido speaks in a halting,heavily accented English. Part Portuguese,he has been cooking Goan cuisine for over 25 years now. In Pune to host a Goan food festival,Hermeneglido talks about the heavy influence of Goan culture over its cuisine.

A gentle whiff of the sea pervades Mystic Masala at Vivanta by Taj Blue Diamond in Pune,as Hermeneglido stirs together a scrumptious Prawn balchao,with the crimson-coloured gravy,made with peri-peri masala,shrimp powder and curry leaves covering the juicy prawns. “Goan food is highly influenced by Portuguese cuisine. But it has evolved over time and has got an indigenous character of its own,” he says.

Ask him about the Malvani or Konkani influences on the Goan cuisine in general as well as in his style of cooking,and Hermeneglido says,“Since Goa has a tropical climate,the spices and flavors used are intense.” He adds that it has the distinctive features of the food served in the western coastal areas such as generous use of coconut is common in the region.

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For the city,Hermeneglido has prepared a special menu comprising trademark Goan dishes. Among the starters,he recommends the Lominho de galinha jirem mirem,a delicacy made from marinated chicken,spiced with cumin and pepper on skewers; and Brochette de verduras,a dish made with exotic vegetables marinated in toddy vinegar and pan-grilled on skewers. For the main course,he has designed an all-round menu with fish,meats,poultry and seafood.

“Using kokum is another distinct feature in Goan cuisine,” says Hermeneglido,who has brought a generous supply of Goan rice,kokum and bright chillies from home. “I want to keep the rustic flavour of the food intact,” says Hermeneglido. “Goan food is not like north Indian food,where the texture and pastes used in the food is smooth. It is more like Maharashtrian food,using fresh vegetables and meats in their natural form,” he adds.

The Goan food festival,which will go on till November 3,will also feature a wide variety of vegetarian food. “I recommend Kaju mushroom and pea xacutti,Aloo banastari and Goan daal masala,among other dishes,” Hermeneglido says.


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