Fashion’s Classic

The result of this philosophy is delicate gowns with rich Oriental embroidery,diaphanous cocktail dresses and a clientele that spans Hollywood stars,actors,royalty and first ladies. Khan’s patrons include Michelle Obama,America’s first lady,actors Penelope Cruz,Carrie Underwood,Alicia Keys,Beyonce Knowles,Princess Yasmin Aga Khan and Queen Noor of Jordan. Among home-grown celebs,Sonam Kapoor and Deepika Padukone are fierce admirers of Khan’s designs. In the decade since he launched the Naeem Khan label,the buzz around him is equally loud at the over 200 stores he retails from across the US,Europe,Middle East,Russia,Ukraine and other former Soviet states from stores such as Bergdorf Goodman,Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods.

In India,for his debut show at the Lakme Fashion Week,Khan will present today a selection of his designs from his autumn-winter,resort wear and spring collections. “I have brought representative pieces to give people here an idea of what I do. India’s a young growing market and we are waiting to see the reaction to the show. I am not immediately looking at expanding in the region,but wouldn’t mind handpicking a couple of boutiques for retail options,” he says. He’s keener on finding possible retail partners for his cosmetics and accessories line that can be introduced in the next couple of years.

Khan’s bond with India runs deeper though. His fashion story began in Mumbai’s Peddar Road,at his family-run embroidery business,where he would spend days wandering around the factory watching karigars at work. He loved the rhythm of the loom as it spun out delicate embroideries and knew that his fortune lay in fashion. Years later,when he was 20,a chance meeting with iconic American designer Roy Halston put him on course. He worked closely with Halston in his studio,was introduced to his celebrity friends that included Andy Warhol,Mick and Bianca Jagger and Elizabeth Taylor,learnt how fashion needs a strong grounding in architecture and symmetry and launched his first label Riazee (named after his mother) in 1981. He married Indian handicraft with western silhouettes,toning down the excesses of each to create a clean,unfussy yet luxurious line,a principle he followed when he launched the Naeem Khan label. It’s been a smooth road to success since,with his clothes pegged between $1,000 and $25,000 (Rs 54,331–Rs 1,358,362). “We have grown by leaps and bounds in these years,which is why I never want to spread myself too thin. The women I design for don’t want to be seen wearing something that is everywhere,so I plan my expansions with care,” he says.

In the last decade or so,Khan says,American fashion has survived economic slowdown and strengthened its base. His own brand has benefitted immensely from Michelle Obama’s consistent support,giving him a publicity he could never have imagined. “Mrs Obama is very specific about what looks good on her and what she is looking for. But she also gives you a free rein once she’s told you the occasion she needs an ensemble for. It’s been fabulous publicity for us on a global scale,something which would have been difficult to manage on our own,” he says. Was he surprised at all when he saw the first lady at the Academy Awards last month giving out an award in an Art Deco-inspired silver gown from his label?

“Very much so,but it was the best kind of surprise,” he says.