WOVEN WONDER

Varanasi is known for its silk, but you’re working with cotton from the region this season.
After the heavy bridal season we just wrapped up, I was in a non-zari mood and really wanted to do a simple summer collection. I’ve been working with weavers in Varanasi for many years and I got this cotton especially woven without a hint of silver or gold zari. Summer should be about light clothes and soft colours, with patterned jacquards that are sheer and show some skin.

How have you given the Indian fabric a contemporary twist?
My intention was to do a very contemporary western collection. This is a pret collection with separates in very simple shapes, ranging from form-fitting pencil skirts and column gowns to silhouettes with controlled flare such as longer skirts and flared pants. I’ve used colours such as white, old rose, pale yellow and powder blue. Apart from a few pieces with a touch of couture — which have tone-on-tone thread embroidery — most of the pieces are simple, wearable and affordable.

You’ve also mentored the GenNext batch. What did that entail?
I must admit that I took on the duties rather reluctantly, since I already have my hands full. But it’s been a very rewarding experience. I don’t want to take credit where it isn’t due, but the advisory board hand-picked the best and these designers are already quite good. I corresponded with them over email and gave my inputs on their collections. But I think my advice and guidance will truly come in handy once they are done with the show and get down to the business of selling.

How do you plan to take this association forward?
Honestly, all six designers have worked on very focussed and commercial pret collections. After the show, I’d like to sit down with them and look at issues like brand positioning, pricing, distribution and selling points. I want to explain the workings of the Indian retail market to them and how I foresee the market developing. In fact, these young designers have shown such promise that I’m working on plans to take this mentorship forward.