Weave in time

Like all indigenous fabrics,the Kunbi weave is deeply rooted in the cultural and environmental ethos of the region. The traditional red-and-white fabric is made of cotton and has a low thread count of 20 singles—essential,given Goa’s hot and humid climate. The kashtis and saris made of Kunbi were worn by the original tribal inhabitants of the state. “The Kunbis,also called Kulambis,are supposed to have descended from the Puranic King Bali. Their attire dates back to Puranic times and is a symbol of the early weaving heritage of the state,” Rodricks informs.

To realise his dream of putting his home state back on the weaving map of India,the Goan designer began reviving the weave by teaming up with an old weaver and a young textile professional to create contemporary fabrics based on the ancient weaving tradition. “We created the first range of dupattas with a 73-year-old weaver whose ancestral profession has been making kashtis and panchas. We used this weave as inspiration and fused it with modern Wendell Rodricks and Goan aesthetic,” the veteran designer informs.

Moreover,given his green leaning,Rodricks assures that the collection is in pure cotton with colour extracts from guava leaves and rice kanjee mixed with iron filings. He says,“It is woven in asymmetric stripes and checks with shells,coconut beads,jersey and hand-spun wool interspersed in the weft.”

When the first collection was exhibited at the Wendell Rodricks Design Space in Panjim on January 27,every piece was sold out within the first week. But Rodricks says that the next collection will be some time in coming since it’s a handicraft that requires time and patience. The designer is also working on a collection to show at a future fashion week. “These projects are not MBA-designed programmes. It involves the hands of rural people.”