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This is an archive article published on April 17, 2009

The Thai Way

They advertised the most comfortable beds in Koh Samui. And delivered on that promise...

They advertised the most comfortable beds in Koh Samui. And delivered on that promise. Last fortnight when a few of us went away for a 10-day holiday,we headed straight to Baan Bophut Hotel at the Fisherman’s Village. Conveniently close to the airport,the location had the added advantage of being away from the tourist traps of Lamai and Chaweng — better known for their girly bars and sleazy night life. It also turned out — lucky for us — to be the finest dining strip outside of the seven-star resorts that Samui boasts of. The Bophut area actually perfectly summed up the reason I go to one of Thailand’s several beaches at least once a year. The country does affordable luxury — in style. Where else can you get a four-star room for Rs 5,000?

There are some properties in Goa that try to do the same (check out the Casa properties) but somewhere something will always be missing. Like a decent cup of coffee. In India,you can be certain that all you will be offered is the vile instant variety cooked in tepid water. In Thailand,you will be able to choose between a French press and an Italian workhorse. Even our service apartment in Bangkok — not the chic-est way to live but such good fun with close friends — had a percolator in the kitchen.

So,we spent a glorious week in Baan Bophut where lazy mornings would invariably lead to the lounge chairs,the beach and books. A plunge in the hotel’s infinity pool was a must. And lunch would be a short stroll down the road — to quaint places like Juzz’a Pizza that strangely served the best Thai green curry (with brown rice) or Baia for the amazing Italian food. A nap was always topped up with a Thai massage at prices that left you smiling. Even at a stylish standalone spa,a 90-minute massage cost Rs 1,500. Back home you won’t even get a backrub at a hotel for that much. The evenings were spent at Starfish & Coffee or at the Q bar — an incredibly chic place a short cab ride from the Fisherman’s Village. What a time we had. What made it even more fun was that we didn’t come back broke.

We weren’t alone in enjoying the beautiful beaches and clean seas on Thailand’s many islands. Flights to Koh Samui went full during our entire stay. Our 11-room hotel had 100 per cent occupancy. And the tourist areas were packed. What was even nicer is that most people had come in groups or with partners and the ugly sight of paunchy white men with little Thai hookers was less in your face. In a way,Thailand seems recession proof. I think the reason lies in a simple truth: They charge according to the service they provide — instead of what they imagine they are providing. Some of our trendiest restaurants in Mumbai charge you for an entire bottle of premium vodka when you ask for a small drink. Once you get the bill you know you aren’t coming back.

The strange thing is I prefer to holiday in India. We have everything we need from the beaches to the mountains. But outside of a five-star hotel you can’t get affordable decent accommodation and I like a clean bathroom at the end of a day. And until we do that all we will get are the tourists we deserve who are either happy living in a dive or want to pay $ 1,000 per night. Unfortunately,they are also the first to go when times are tough. To Thailand,I suspect — where everything is nicer.

Nonita Kalra is Editor-In-Chief,ELLE

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