Tapestry Tales

The Mumbai-based designer explains that her interest was kindled earlier this year when Dr Darlie Koshy –— former director of National Insitute of Design (NID),Ahmedabad –— told her about the rich culture of Manipur on behalf of their state government. “I then visited Imphal and the neighbouring villages a few times. In most other states,the weaving profession is dominated by men but here that is not so. In fact,every house has a loom –— it is a traditional dowry gift –— and all fabrics are made using handlooms. I wanted to show to the world the magic one can create using these weaves,” recounts the designer,adding that weaving,alongside agriculture,provides the highest employment to the women folk. Mehta’s collection,to be showcased on Indian Textile Day,has been created in collaboration with the Manipur Department of Commerce & Industries.

This dependence on handlooms in the state also means each fabric is painstakingly woven with attention to detail and it sometimes takes up to 15 days to weave mere seven metres of fabric. With her collection needing over 300 metres of fabric,Mehta,therefore,had to make multiple visits to the weavers’ households.

The resulting line,Mehta says,will be contemporary. “From tunics and jackets with minimal embroidery to ornate saris and lehengas with gota,ari,dabka and zardosi work,I am covering a whole spectrum,” she says. With Manipuri weavers welcoming experimentation,she has also featured stripes,checks and other prints using tie and dye and shibori techniques.

Mehta,in addition,has also modified the fabrics to make them work for her collection. “Woven on a loom that’s similar to the Burmese loom,Manipuri fabrics are usually very heavy or too light and sheer. I have changed the weight of these fabrics in order to achieve a middle-ground for my line,” Mehta points out.

And will Manipur’s poster girl Mary Kom walk the ramp for her show? Mehta is tight-lipped for now. “Nothing is confirmed yet,” she says.

vidya.prabhu@expressindia.com

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