‘We are closed’: Grant Road’s iconic Irani cafe B Merwan & Co draws its curtains

A handwritten note pasted on its doors, dated January 1, 2026, read simply: “We are closed. We thank you for your patronage.” (Express photo by Sankhadeep Banerjee)

Alongside the memories were speculations. One user claimed that municipal authorities had revoked the cafe’s licence for using wood-fired ovens, allegedly asking the owners to shift to gas or electric alternatives. Another suggested rumours of a possible takeover. None of these claims, however, could be independently verified.

A century-old legacy
B Merwan & Co was established in 1914 by Boman Merwan Nazarabadi, who migrated from Iran to Bombay in search of a better life. He set up shop opposite Grant Road station, a strategic location that drew commuters from as far as Virar, Andheri, and Borivali, many of whom stopped by for a quick cup of chai and a slice of mawa cake.

The inside view of B Merwan & Co in this file photo. (Express Archive Photo by Abhijit Alka Anil)

“There was nothing like this in Bombay then—no places for quick snacks,” his grandson, Boman Nazarabadi, once said in an interview. He joined the business in 1951 after college, alongside his brother Soroush. “We are the third generation. Many of the Irani places have changed now, they have become Chinese or pizza or beer bars. I wouldn’t like that! No, I wouldn’t like it, the old is gold,” he had said.

The cafe was best known for its moist mawa cakes, which often sold out by afternoon. Regulars fondly recall its glass-topped wooden tables, distinctive Irani chairs, red-checked tablecloths, and an affordability that stood out amid Mumbai’s rising food prices.

In 2014, the cafe had shut briefly — what many feared was a permanent closure — only to reopen weeks later after repair work. Whether this time marks the end remains unclear. Bakers across the city said they were unaware of a confirmed closure. Yazdani’s proprietor Perzon Zend said he had no information but spoke fondly of B Merwan’s mawa cakes, while De La Paix’s Gustad Irani said he had heard murmurs but did not know if a final decision had been taken.