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This is an archive article published on June 7, 2013

Sheer pleasure

From clothing to accessories,sheer is the latest way to make heads turn.

Grabbing attention has always been easy for Gwyneth Paltrow. But when the Hollywood actor turned up in a sheer dress from Antonio Berardi’s Fall 2013 collection at the premiere of her latest film Iron Man 3 in April this year,it got tongues wagging. The sheer panels on the sides of the floor-length gown left little to the imagination. There may have been no wardrobe malfunction,but the straight-haired actor created more than a ripple on the red carpet. In fact,notwithstanding the flak from some quarters,Paltrow’s outing only served to reiterate the popularity of sheer clothing.

While her boldness is not likely to be replicated in India,sheer is certainly enjoying a good run in the country,with several leading designers — from Namrata Joshipura and Anita Dongre to Nachiket Barve and Nikasha Tawadey — harbouring a weakness for it. The summer heat,for one,makes sheer an ideal choice. Designer Nikhil Thampi says,“Sheer clothing tends to keep one cool and helps people breeze through the day. Plus,it is trendy.”

India is no stranger to sheer clothing. Sheer saris have been a favourite in Bollywood for years. Tawadey explains that this is because sheer is synonymous with femininity. “Sheer is delicate,and it has a certain romantic air about it,” she says. Moreover,with chiffons,georgettes,net,tulle,mulmul,organza,silk and linen lending themselves well to this trend,sheer garments can be easily crafted from a variety of fabrics. This apart,sheer also scores high on the utilitarian scale; for instance,Dongre says that a sheer jacket worn over a sleeveless or a strappy dress makes the ensemble more formal.

Barve,on the other hand,emphasises that working a look with sheer can be a tricky thing. “In our country,the diaphanous chiffon sari is vintage stuff,and the idea is to tantalise. But too much of it can make it look vulgar. One must then know where to draw the line and a great way of doing it is to go for layering,where a sheer coverup is thrown over an opaque garment,preferably in a contrasting colour,” he says. In such situations,the inner wear also assumes importance.

Dongre agrees that given the Indian social milieu,not too many people would overdo sheer. “Unless,you are an actress or a model and have a body to flaunt,wearing body-hugging sheer outfits is not for you. But then again,sporting sheer doesn’t mean one has to show skin,” she says. For Tawadey though,a sheer back works beautifully for an outfit. “I personally think it is far more sensual than showing décolletage,” she says.

Slipping into a simple sheer outfit also doesn’t necessarily mean one can go overboard with the accessories. Thampi believes that the odd statement neckpiece can up the glamour quotient by a few notches,but Dongre warns that an overall minimal look works best with sheer.

Sheer as a trend has transcended into accessories as well. Furla and Armani Jeans have rolled out a line of transparent handbags,with the former having launched see-through versions of the Candy bag and the Piper Lux model. “Our collection is inspired by sophisticated see-through effects,both through the use of PVC and artisanal leather perforations,” says Giovanna Furlanetto,president of Furla,in an email interview. Meanwhile,Gucci’s Spring Summer ’13 line boasts of the Aristographic Perspex clutch that is inspired by the pattern and colours of gemstones and is created by a high technology process used in jewellery production,which can carve through thick plexiglass. Transparent shoes too have garnered popularity,with the likes of Stella McCartney introducing plexiglass wedges,clutches and necklaces.

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Thampi vouches for the rising number of takers for transparent accessories. Barve,however,adds a word of caution — to not let sheer alone dictate one’s ensemble. “A sheer outfit doesn’t have to be worn with a Perspex clutch and a pair of lucite platform heels,” he says.

vidya.prabhu@expressindia.com

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