Nouveau,Nice

Varun Bahl

Indian couture is undoubtedly clubbed and dubbed with bridal wear but not all designers want to make “wedding” the only hub of their work. Varun Bahl is certainly among those who hint at a course correction in perception. Bahl’s show that opened the PCJ Delhi Couture Week on Wednesday made some welcome points. One,made by his generous use of black as a defining colour; two the underlying message through colour and interpretation that not all couture is created for weddings. Though it was all Indian wear,the collection was thoughtfully balanced it could appeal to the edgy luxury buyer and even stretched out its charms even to the wedding market. Lehengas,saris,achkans,shararas,mughal farshis (wider sharara that sweeps the floor) and long jackets comprised the line called “India,Nouveau”. Secondly,Bahl introduced some exciting new silhouettes — sheer net kurtas,with bright red bustiers,fluid and flowy below the waist with embellished churidars. Some of his saris had a double pallu—one attached to the bustier and other to the sari. Black mutated to a another palette with coral blue,olive and red. His fabrics were silk net,chiffon and velvet. The collection subtle and sophisticated and eluded anything garish or loud. It was couture in the finest sense of the term because of its precision and finish not because of the embellishments.