No excess baggage

Fashion is a form of redefinition after all. When it comes to describing the “powerful” Indian woman of today,designer Anamika Khanna’s take is balanced and perhaps reflective of herself and her work. “She (the Indian woman) is intense with an unfailing romanticism,disciplined and courageous enough to reduce excess. She respects traditions and cherishes fine craft,but is bound by no rules. She’s not out to prove a point… she is elegant and timeless,” read the note issued by Khanna before the start of her show on the second day of PCJ Delhi Couture Week at an off-site show held at Evoluzione,The Kila, celebrating the multi-designer store’s first anniversary. This characterisation of the Indian femme fatale was translated by the designer in her collection “A Love Song To India” in many ways. She took on the six yards,retaining its elegant drape but instead of petticoats,gave it a new luxurious form by pairing it with dhoti pants and the like. Given that it’s a couture collection,Khanna addressed the lehenga too,but for her Indian woman she contemporised it almost gown-like,topped with short and long capes. It was almost as if a bridal veil had been brought down from over the head to around the neck. Looking to present Indian royalty (a part of her mood board) as it would be worn by a modern Indian woman,Khanna showcased intricate embroidery very conspicuously on floor length coats,bandhgalas,capes and pre-stitched saris. Her choice of fabrics was silk,silk organza,chiffon and tulle. The colour palette remained muted,starting with pale pinks and though it graduated to bursts of royal blue,red,gold and silver,the tones steered more towards matte than glossy. The ebony-ivory line was eye-catching,as were the contrast outfits in red and blue. When it comes to the couture wardrobe of Indian women,the designer drove home many points with regard to silhouettes and colours but the strongest of them was how embroideries can tell a more powerful story than beady embellishments.