Feast Firsts

Talk takes a Ramzan feast tour along Muhammed Ali Road to find that sweets emerge the big winners even over the most delectable meat dishes

Even before those observing Ramzan troop into Mohammed Ali Road to break their fasts,this food haven of Mumbai witnesses a flurry of activity. As cooks and shop owners prepare for a busy evening ahead,wafts of sweet smell fill the air. This is a strong enough indication that along side the rows of makeshift shops dishing out kababs,quail masala,haleem and other meat-based items,there is a formidable presence of shops selling a wide array of sweets.

One of the striking sights that greets visitors first near Minara Masjid is that of thick,yellow,syrupy mixture being poured into bubbling hot oil in a frying pan. Soon,these will be ready to be served as malpuas. Rainbow-coloured faludas packed in plastic pouches are equally eye-catching. Those taking a tour of the area will come across stacks of sutar feni,mawa jalebi,aflatoon,malai khaja and barfi . Most of them are bright-hued and show the promise of mouthwatering sweetness. Those wanting to flirt their taste bud with something chilled can opt for hand-made ice cream.

Malpua

THESE pancake-size malpuas are the stars of Ramazan feasts. Suleman Usman Mithaiwala of Mohammed Ali Road and Bohri Mohallas Tawakkal Sweets serve some of the richest and tastiest ones,closely followed by Modern Sweets near Minara Masjid. Modern Sweets is the only shop in the locality to serve the egg-less variety. These protein-rich sweets are favoured after a daylong starving. They are made from a mixture of flour,sugar,semolina,dry fruits and eggs. Once they are deep-fried,they are served hot with rabdi smeared on top. It has remained peoples favourite because it is available for only one month of the year, says Nooruddin Gilani,owner of Modern Sweets. Single egg malpua costs nearly Rs 80,double egg ones anything between Rs 90-120 and eggless ones for Rs 120 per kilo.

Phirni

A PORRIDGE-LIKE sweet dish made of rice,milk,sugar,flour and dry fruits is kept in a matki (earthen pot) that absorbs the moisture and cools it. Suleman Usman Mithaiwala makes it in multiple flavours safforn,mango and strawberry. The classic phirni,however,is the white one that comes for Rs 35. Tawakkal offers it in Alphonso,saffron and rose flavours. The sale is highest after the nights prayer. It helps to cool the body after a heavy dinner, says Mohammed,owner of Tawakkal. It is priced between Rs 25-45

Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi

It is available round the year but at a single store in Mumbai,located in the Minara Masjid lane. Popular as Burhanpur mawa jalebi,it is made following a simple recipe using mawa,milk and arrowroot wheat. The shop derives its name from Burhanpur a place in Madhya Pradesh where this variety of jalebi originated,apparently during the pre-Independence era. Its 70-year-old owner,Nooruddin Narpali,boasts of a celebrity clientèle. A kilo of this costs Rs 200.

Hand-made ice cream

BOHRI Mohallas famous 120-year old Taj Ice cream serves some of the best flavours of ice creams. Most of these flavours are derived from seasonal fruits. Last year,it was Alphonso mango that dominated our product,but this year it is sitaphal, says Abdul Hasim,an employee. Tajs ice cream making and serving style have remained old-fashioned. The fruits are crushed,with the pulp mixed into milk and other ingredients without any artificial flavour,says Hasim. Sitaphal and mango ice cream costs Rs 500 per kilo.

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