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This is an archive article published on March 31, 2010

Second Life

For those used to high-octane drama at designer Tarun Tahiliani’s shows,the low-key display of ensembles on the ramp at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week on Thursday came as a bit of a surprise.

For those used to high-octane drama at designer Tarun Tahiliani’s shows,the low-key display of ensembles on the ramp at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) on Thursday came as a bit of a surprise. Tahiliani’s models walked out in bejewelled parallel pants with hand embroidery on them,in velvet tights teamed with jewelled gilets over tee-shirts,a range of ready-to-wear saris in muted shades of midnight blue and emerald greens and other jewel tones. The male models showcased an ethnic line-up of slim-fit pants with crushed crepe kurtas,Nehru jackets with quilt work on them and achkans with rich zardosi work.

From chikankari to ikat to kantha — Tahiliani played around with an entire gamut of indigenous Indian handicrafts with a grace born of long practice. “I have consciously kept the colours dull,so that the handicrafts can be highlighted. The clothes are a melting pot of modern silhouettes and indigenous craftsmanship so that when a buyer looks at them,he knows instantly that they are the work of an Indian designer,” said Tahiliani at the end of his show.

A day after the embarrassing no show at the WIFW due to the non-availability of fire permits,the Week got off to a slow but graceful start at NSIC grounds in Okhla with the showcase by designers Astha Bahl,Gaurav and Ritika and Ritesh Kumar,despite a low turnout and a discreet police presence at the venue.

But it was the show by newbies Jenjum and Jasleen later in the afternoon that made for a refreshing change and brought the focus back on to the clothes. “We have tried to marry tribal and punk elements together,but in a more tempered down,sophisticated way,” said Jenjum,who hails from Arunachal Pradesh,ahead of his show.

The collection worked with unusual elements like ghungroos,sea shells and golden safety pins as embellishments while rosette sleeves and pintucks lent a structured formality to the clothes.

Even as a beaming actor Neena Gupta looked on from the sidelines,daughter Masaba,who debuted at the WIFW this season,showcased a collection that was largely Indian ethnic wear. While most of the ensembles were high on the wearability factor,the collection came across as a little jaded. The only thing that worked for us were the kitschy half-and-half saris with pockets and in a mix of stripes and solids,and the reversible skirts for women and kurtas for men.

Designer Pallavi Mohan,on the other hand,put forward a breezy collection,based on the theme of Alice in Wonderland in a concise show. From the candy-striped stockings and the free-flowing dresses with macrame,crochet detailing and ombre borders to the sequinned skirts and the funky head-gear,the show lived up to Mohan’s reputation of being a fun designer. Wearable and very cool.

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