India on her Sleeve

Khanna spoke of her collection as being one that showcased ‘Indian Androgyny’,and indeed it was. Structured jackets,cut close to the body,may have seemed like an odd choice to pair with elephant pants for a womenswear line but the Kolkata-based designer knows what’s sensuous and feminine,and it’s certainly not figure-hugging lycra dresses,with cleavage-revealing cuts. Her collection,with its inspirations drawn from menswear staples such as belted jackets and tailored coats,revealed its inherent femininity with the delicate fabrics and fluid silhouettes. In a subversion of the traditional definition of feminine sensuality,she gave them high necks and long hemlines. The only flesh that was bared was the models’ abdomens. She also released women’s fashion from the tyranny of high heels,by putting her models in flat,silk mojris.

However,what stood out for us was that Khanna managed to bring together all her different inspirations — menswear,traditional fabrics and fashion crafts,and the impending summer — to create a solid line that stands on its own. This is the same woman,who once ended a show full of elaborate bridal wear,by showcasing 10 brightly coloured,crinkled muslin saris. The drama then was in the clothes — the seeming incongruity of crushed muslin,after a parade of beautifully worked lehengas. It makes perfect sense,when one looks at the larger body of work that Khanna has presented over the years.

Caroline Young,international creative consultant,has followed Khanna’s career for many years and declares that this is perhaps her best collection so far. “Anamika is always good with her cuts and her fabrics,but this time,it was brilliant. Her clothes have that rare quality of wearing well with age and although her influences are very much Indian,her clothes can really be worn by anyone of any age and race.” Young agrees that Khanna’s strength is the fabric and its textures and colours. Her masterly manipulations of traditional crafts,in order to create her own signature is what continue to make her one of the most individual voices in Indian fashion. This voice found stronger expression in her show on Thursday night. The jewellery was minimal,the hair was pulled back into oiled chignons,and the make up was undramatic. What the audience present really gasped at was the simple elegance of clothes.