Tech and Savvy

Where does this leave room for making clothes?

My new role provides me an insight into the future of online trade over the coming years and allows me to adapt to its preeminent role in the trade. It also lets me focus on design,moving away from day-to-day management of my company.

Despite presenting fashion shows regularly,your clothes and stores have almost disappeared.

We never said we’re available in a thousand stores across the country. The Indian fashion industry has been built on the talent of the designer. Retailers have done very little other than build their castles on the weakness of the designers,by that I mean consignment trade. I never believed in investing in stock so that others could make money on me with practically no risk on their part. I’m quite happy handling my roster of private clients and also corporate projects. Additionally,the retail environment has changed drastically with more niche malls coming up.

Why have you not been able to turn your former ready-to-wear line Chai,or your menswear label,into successes?

Chai was a great idea before its time but unfortunately,in partnerships the vision has to be shared over the long term. That is not always possible when one is exploring uncharted territory. Our men’s line is stronger than ever and we are exploring avenues to partner with people to take this ahead. This has been a big year for the Narendra Kumar brand,to have been recognised by no less than the bible of menswear,Esquire magazine,as one amongst best menswear stores in the world along with the likes of Tom Ford ,Prada and Brioni. The first and only Indian on it,with more to follow.

You’re always presenting such stimulating fashion shows,there’s always a social message.

Fashion for us has never been just about the clothes,it’s about their relation to the prevailing environment. Of course,clothes need to be either in trend or of a classic nature. Fashion shows are a platform to express both joy and distress or agitation. I plan my shows like a 17-minute cinema that engages people on both,a cerebral and a pleasurable level. But no,I will not stand for elections.

Who are your fashion heroes?

Azzedine Alaia taught me what it meant to sculpt around a body. One of the most joyous moments in my fashion career has been having a private audience with him in the presence of his dogs who incidentally are taller than him. The other people are Claude Montana,one of the greatest tailors ever,along with Thierry Mugler,Yohji Yamamoto,Rei Kawakubo and architects like Frank Gehry and Tadao Ando.