Ottoman Empire : Gate Number Two

JJ Valaya

The highly anticipated off-site show by JJ Valaya on Wednesday evening started — admittedly by the designer too — with a strong sense of déjà vu. As models sashayed down the set (it wasn’t just a ramp) in his 2012 couture collection,few missed the conceptual similarity between the designer’s WIFW Autumn-Winter finale show held in Delhi in February,which was inspired by the Ottoman Empire. Valaya wasn’t coy about the similarities. Also titled “Azrak” like the former one,this range was indeed an extension of his former line. A grand set that resembled a Turkish Sultan’s room with glass chandeliers and jaali work nailed the mood. Opulent and aspirational is how he sees his own brand and that’s exactly the way he positions it. Saris,lehengas,shararas,long coats with quilted and transparent skirts,churidars,sherwanis and of course,the trademark Alika jacket made an appearance. Intricate semi-precious stone inlay work,zardozi and badla on the garments made it glitzy and fascinating in parts. Valaya used fabrics such as fine silk,dupion,jacquard and velvets. An orange lehenga,for instance,looked like a piece of art with immense detailing through embroidered minarets,even if some motifs like exotic birds and Turkish miniatures kept reappearing. Colours were intense — deep red,oranges,gold,ivory and many shades of blue.