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In its previous life,S Bar and Restaurant,then known as Shalom,was a respected oasis in the retail desert of Greater Kailash. It achieved a nigh mystical reputation,being the first of a subsequent legion of Middle Eastern themed resto-bars. Given that stepping outside these days is akin to walking into a swimming pool (tended by an insalubrious pool-attendant),an oasis is probably not the best place to visit. Yet,because the buzz around the place is as loud as the chattering of a dozen garrulous genies,a spirit of inquiry prevailed.
The interiors are a la Marrakech,with the usual lacquered mirrors and screens,ivory-coloured walls and tiled floors among which lie couches,divans and more western table-chair arrangements.
The menu is mainly Middle Eastern,with a few contemporary twists,such as Pita Pizza,though like the WTO with a fair share of global concessions (pork chops in a Middle Eastern restaurant?). Not that were complaining,being such porcine partisans. The bar menu has a decent offering of various poisons,with signature cocktails,Kiwi Martini and Levitation (Bombay Sapphire gin and a medley of mixes),proving an interesting read and an even more interesting drink.
After some reflection,we decide to have the Non-veg Mezze Platter,to appease any traditionalist leanings,and the Chorizo and Prune Pita Pizza,because were daring like that. The platter comes prettily heaped (read comprising copious quantities) with Char-grilled Chicken Wings,Goat Meat and Cheese Tart and Kibbeh kebabs apart from the usual accoutrements of hummus,cacik,baba ghanoush and tabbouleh,all accompanied by a basket of hot,puffed-up pita bread. The wings,like George Plantagenet,are drowned though in harrisa,not Malmsey,leading to a flavour fortified in spicy goodness (rather how George must have fortified that wine). The kebabs are torpedo shaped and nearly of the same proportions,though their heaviness is belied by the surprisingly gentle flavour of the lamb. The tarts are of similar immaculate conception and execution. In the midst of so much meat,the dips are somewhat ignored,though the tabbouleh makes for a pleasant palate-cleanser. The pita pizza,an interesting idea,suffers from a surfeit of prunes,which collectively manage to overpower the usually robust chorizo. This imbalance can be easily corrected by removing said prunes,leaving a little something for dessert,or Miss Manners,depending on how you regard Emily Post.
Meal for two: Rs 2,500(with taxes)
ADDRESS: 10,N Block,Greater Kailash I.
Contact: 41632280
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