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Intentionally Indian

Sprawling across the third floor of the Suncity Business Tower is 20,000 square feet of Indian fine-dining space.

Sprawling across the third floor of the Suncity Business Tower is 20,000 square feet of Indian fine-dining space. The Indian Grill Room offers guests a variety of seating options: outside dining area scattered with gazebos,an outdoor bar and kitchen and a water feature; a private dining room that seats 20; an island kitchen in the middle of the restaurant surrounded by bar stools; as well as conventional table-chair set-ups. The huge space gives diners a feeling of intimacy even in the main dining area. And while the décor changes across the restaurant,it does so in a very congruous manner.

The indoor menu is table d’hote (fixed menu) whereas the outside area offers an a la carte menu. As we visited the restaurant in the afternoon,we stuck to table d’hote,which changes every month. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options offer six types of kebabs,two main course dishes,Indian breads and a choice of desserts. Keeping in mind Delhi’s insatiable appetite,the servings are unlimited.

We started with the kebabs,a very fair representation of the different grill preparations across the country. So in April,you can sample (or gorge on,depending on your culinary proclivity) the galawati from Lucknow,chicken cafreal from Goa and tabak maaz from Kashmir,among others.

There is mercifully little modernisation of the food itself. The chefs obviously have a penchant for authenticity and stick to the tried-and-tested marinations and preparations,though one of the vegetarian kebabs has an interesting twist. Grilled fruit chaat may not sound like a great idea till you actually try it . The grilling locks in the chaat masala and rock salt into the fruit,while also giving it a nice,crisp texture. The rest of the kebabs are all excellently executed without being particularly extraordinary.

For the main course,we had mutton biryani with raita and different flavoured naans (mint and chilli) with lagan ka murg,dal makhani and paneer moksha (essentially paneer makhani). Again,the dishes are really well-cooked,with emphasis on tradition rather than innovation. The paneer and the mutton biryani stand out.

By this time,we were leaning back,bellies distended and thinking longingly of an afternoon siesta. However,there is truth in that adage about there always being room for dessert. And this dessert takes the cake (no pun please). The matka kulfi and moong dal halwa are in a class of their own,but the pièce de résistance is the gulab ki kheer. It is decadent indulgence,the sweet richness of the kheer matching effortlessly with the floral,rose flavour.

Meal for two: Rs. 3,000 (including taxes,excluding alcohol) Address: Suncity Business Tower,DLF Golf Course Road,Sector 54,Gurgaon,Contact: 8527246777

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