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This is an archive article published on August 3, 2013

Vintage Vanguard

Jewellery designer Suhani Pittie is besotted with the old,even as she embraces the new with a collection preview and an online store

Hyderabad-based jewellery designer Suhani Pittie is a bundle of contradictions. She effortlessly marries wood to acrylic,silver and glass to wire mesh and ghungroos to create her signature line of statement ornaments. Yet,she finds inspiration in the walls and tiles of her marital home,a 200-year-old haveli. A graduate of the Gemological Institute of America,she is fascinated with the workings of copper,brass and silver,and prefers to be called a “metal smith” rather than a jewellery designer. Her design philosophy: “An unexpected combination of contradictory elements. To give the world something new with an old twist.”

Having launched her label in 2004,today Pittie has a flagship store in Hyderabad,retail presence in stores across the country and a newly introduced e-shop. At a showcase of her collection “Dances with the Earth” at Mumbai concept store Bungalow 8,Pittie discusses her vintage fixation and myriad inspirations. Excerpts:

Your work walks a tight-rope between the traditional and the unconventional.

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I’m besotted with the old. Give me an old wind-up watch any day over a modern one. I’m a sucker for history and vintage things. As far as the unconventional goes,that’s my mood. I live in a world of two parallel lifestyles — a 200-year-old haveli with a vacuum lift. My work is truly an extension of me,my thoughts and my surroundings.

How has living in a heritage haveli honed your aesthetic?

To me,the Raja Bahadur Motilal haveli in Begum Bazaar,with its 70-odd rooms and three wells,represents strength,unity and culture. The walls,the floors,and the divergent cultures within are a testament that we can be as modern as we need to be,yet live with tradition. That reflects strongly in my work. However modern I may be — using zippers and steel — there is always an inherent old thought behind what I do. This is because of my surrounding. Here,you’ll encounter the bangle seller,the jatra dancers,or the old neighbourhood ladies making garlands.

Conceptual jewellery is a new phenomenon in India. Is there a growing acceptance now?

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Earlier,people would ask the resale value very often. And I would ask them: ‘Do you buy designer wear thinking one day you will sell it? Do you ask the designer for the resale value?’ I hated it when they used to call it ‘junk’ just because it was silver. Now,things have changed. Whether it’s steel or zippers,electroplated copper or ghungroos,we have managed to sell everything. We are a country where jewellery is an emotional purchase. Now,a large percentage buys it purely for design.

Your sister Anamika Khanna’s and your work is underlined with a fascination for the vintage married to a contemporary sensibility. Do you both swap ideas?

I have things from Ana which are 15 years old that I still wear. She probably also has the biggest collection of my work. She is my biggest critic too. Though I don’t think I have done even one per cent of what she has done,our aesthetics are very alike. In fact,when I had started work and nobody knew we were sisters,everyone used to say,‘Your jewellery would work so beautifully with Anamika Khanna’s clothes.’ Though she is 10 years older than me and is almost like my mom and scolds me a lot,she is also the one who pampers me.

Your husband Stouvant is also your business partner. How does that affect the dynamics of your relationship?

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Since we are both not formally trained,there is a very productive exchange of ideas on textures and technicalities. Every moment is a learning curve. But come 8 o’clock,work comes to a close. Then it’s dinner,coffee,reading,carrom and Uno. Though we do seek each other’s advice and opinions,we are very clear about our job profiles. There is no ‘I’ in our relationship.

What other interests keep you engaged?

Photography,architecture,anthropology and history books,graphology,dancing,seeing every movie that releases (good or bad),making parodies,books on world culture,football,Xbox,Harry Potter and a very strong passion for bikes. I want to buy a modified Thunderbird but right now I’m one-fifth its weight. So I’m working out.

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