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This is an archive article published on January 31, 2018

Silk route: My work always retains essence of the Northeast, says designer Sonam Dubal

Designer Sonam Dubal on why traditional textiles from the Northeast are treasures to be kept alive

Silk route: My work always retains essence of the Northeast, says designer Sonam Dubal Designer Sonam Dubal

THIS Delhi-based designer was born in Assam, is of Sikkimese and Maharashtrian descent, and wears his lineage and cultural background on the sleeves of his kimono jacket. Indo-Asian silhouettes, vibrant indigenous fabrics and recycling stories make Sonam Dubal’s label Sanskar, launched in 1999, stand apart in an over-fraught fashion industry. And for this senior designer, the invitation to be part of the #NortheastMojo show not only came at an opportune time but also fell neatly in line with his label’s recalibrated shift towards a more sustainable movement.

Excerpts from an interview:

You last showed at LFW in 2008. What prompted your return?

I did show my collection at Amazon India Fashion Week in 2015 and then participated in the Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver, Canada, in 2016 and 2017. I have lately stayed away from fashion weeks because I wanted to set up my business, make a conscious move towards a sustainable economy and redefine my work vis-a-vis the ecological shift in fashion. I also wanted to expand my international market and set up Maison Sanskar in Vancouver in April 2016. Mumbai is very special to me and when IMG Reliance contacted me almost a month ago, it seemed like the right time and an appropriate platform to showcase my work.

Tell us about the collection

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My work always retains the essence of the Northeast. I’m showcasing my Autumn-Winter 2018 collection called “Majuli”, a celebration of the textiles and cultural beauty of Assam. I’ve worked with Eri silk or Ahimsa silk, which is a fabric I’ve always had a great affinity for. It has the incredible property of keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter. I’ve also worked with muga silk, Assamese ‘pat’ silk and handwoven cotton, all sourced from the weavers of the Sualkuchi Handloom cluster. The silhouettes are very Indo-Asian, with printed dresses, capes and embroidered jackets.

Silk route: My work always retains essence of the Northeast, says designer Sonam Dubal one ofSonam Dubal’s creations from the ‘Majuli’ collection

Do you think the textile practices of the Northeast need special focus?

The craftsmanship of the region is an ecological treasure that needs to be highlighted and preserved. Events like these not only focus on under-appreciated skills but are also a wonderful way to encourage exchange of ideas between designers, artists, craftspeople and writers. Not only will they introduce the rest of India to the region’s indigenous textile crafts, they will also ignite conversations on protecting these practices and keeping them alive. I’ve committed myself to this cause.


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