Days after Prada, the luxury Italian brand, triggered outrage over the representation of India’s Kolhapuri chappals, Dior is under fire for not crediting mukaish work, a metal-strand embroidery technique from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh.
Jonathan Anderson, the newly appointed sole creative director for both women’s and wear at Christian Dior, unveiled his highly anticipated debut collection in Paris on June 27. The runway show left the Internet abuzz and saw a star-studded front row, including Robert Pattinson, Rihanna, and Daniel Craig.
Among the many standout pieces, a gold and ivory houndstooth coat caught the eye of fashion commentator and content creator Hanan Besnovic, who shared a video highlighting the craftsmanship behind the piece, pointing out the mukaish work, a centuries-old metal embroidery technique from Lucknow.
“Why is it a 200k dollar coat? Well, there’s a little more context to it. The coat is from the debut collection of Jonathan Anderson for Dior, but the procedure used to make this coat is not easy. First of all, the embroidery that you see on this coat is made by using the traditional mukaish technique. This is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique,” Besnovic says in his video.
He goes on to explain that 12 Indian artisans worked on the coat for over 34 days for the detailed work. However, no credit was given to the Indian craftsmanship.
Watch here:
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This controversy erupted days after Prada’s backlash over their reinterpretation of Kolhapuri chappals. Reacting to the video, a user wrote, “I do wish Indian embroiderers/ artisans received as much recognition as ateliers like Lesage. Whatever your opinion of Maria Grazia, she really did shine a light on the Indian artisans she worked with to bring her pieces to life.”
Another user commented, “lol I wonder the percentage of $20000 they charge goes to the artisans . I can tell you it’s nowhere above $500 max.”