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Journalism of Courage
My three-day tour of Sabah in Borneo began with a quiet stroll on the soft sands of Turtle Island beach. The unsettling tides washed up shells at my feet and the swirling wind, trademark of coastal areas, smelt of salt. The famous turtles of Borneo, however, decided to stay out of sight.
A two-hour flight from Kuala Lumpur transported me from the claustrophobic skyscrapers in Malaysia8217;s capital to the serenity of golden beaches. The Peninsula Malaysia stretches to north Borneo Islands with the states of Sabah and Sarawak. Together, they boast a coastline of around 1,500 km.
A jetty was hired and the group of five jumped in, closely followed by our guide. As our boarding port faded in the distance, the humungous expanse of the sea became clearer.
Caressed by the South China Sea on its west and the Sulu and Celebs Sea on its eastern side, Sabah is an excellent playground for water sports, be it jet-skiing, kayaking or cruising through mangroves.
You begin with Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. Dotted with five islands, the Park8217;s marine heritage boasts extensive coral reefs. While I could have satiated myself with swimming and sauntering by any one of the beaches, island hopping was pure luxury. Eight hours and five islands later, I was quite full of the sea.
Most islands offer small wooden cottages done up in dark wood with well-equipped kitchens. They can lock you away from the bustling city life with only a handful of annoyed crabs washed ashore for company. Seafood is in abundance on the menu cards; vegetarians need to get on a strict salad and dessert diet. Currency exchange facilities are available at some of these island resorts but it8217;s best to check with the tour guide before setting for the sea.
The state capital of Sabah was called Jesselton until 1960s when its colonial name was changed to Kota Kinabalu. Given to the proximity it shares with Mount Kinabalu, the name suits it well. The foothill of the highest mountain peak in Southeast Asia is just 90 km away.
It is best to pack in a warm jacket along with mosquito-repellent lotion, raincoat and sunglasses if you plan to go trekking. An extra pair of clothes will do no harm, given the sudden downpours in the hills.
A 600m trek uphill at the Kinabalu Park takes you to a canopy walkway. Once the trekking is done, begins the creepy canopy walk. An eight-inch wide wooden plank is the only support to take you across 60 metres of deep gauge. Strong ropes entangled to make four-feet high nets are your only support on either side of the plank. Treetops rustling against you and birds flying below, three sets of shaky planks port you to the other side of the hill before get on ground again.
On the drive back from Mount Kinabalu, a stop at the Hill Tribes Market is a must. With the state inhabited by 32 ethnic communities, this market displays an assortment of their handicrafts, textiles and pottery. Cheap bargains here will help you take home exclusive mementos and packs of tea from the Borneo rainforest.
Also, you can ride the North Borneo tourist steam train and explore the scenic beauty of the countryside, including tribal habitats and World War II memorials.
The winding roads of this state capital are adorned with beautiful mosques and magnificent churches on its sides. With a couple of newly built flyovers, the city has begun showcasing its first signs of modernity as the country celebrates 50 years of its nationhood.
