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This is an archive article published on January 11, 2005

The Rani’s domain

Car Nicobar has sadly been in the news in this period of mourning, specially the Air Force base there. And what of the Rani of Nancowrie? Is...

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Car Nicobar has sadly been in the news in this period of mourning, specially the Air Force base there. And what of the Rani of Nancowrie? Is she safe? Our sailors will know who I mean. They will know that her suzerainty extended all over the Nicobar group of islands except Car Nicobar. In 1953 I saw her being welcomed aboard the ship in which I was serving by the captain, no less, as befits one captain doing the honours to another. These island tribes of Indo-Burmese stock had been accustomed for centuries to visits from ships that sailed on this important sea route. They soon realised that the most important person in any ship was the captain. What could be more natural than that the tribal leader be designated captain?

And the title of ‘rani’? Thereby hangs a tale, of courage and presence of mind by the then captain, a woman called Islon. When the sighting of the dreaded German raider Emden was reported to her, she ordered the hoisting of the Union Jack on her island flagpost causing the ship to turn away. In appreciation, the British allowed her to be addressed as Rani.

Here is Commander George de Gama, then in command of INS Kuthar, calling on Rani Laxmi, the daughter who was elected to succeed Rani Islon. It is excerpted from his article in the naval annual Quarterdeck 2003: ‘‘Protocol requires me to call on the Rani of Nancowrie. A short walk up from the beach to the most imposing thatched-roof dwelling indicates the queen’s residence. The house is rather large by village standards and I am ushered into a spacious main room…

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‘‘Our conversation is neither stilted nor over-friendly; her presence commands the deference that royalty is accorded. It’s been a long time since she visited the mainland, the last time being when Pandit Nehru invited her to Delhi to celebrate our day of Independence in 1947…

‘‘After a few more pleasantries I am invited to sign the visitors’ book. I am amazed at the antiquity of the document and am honoured to add INS Kuthar to an impressive list of ships.’’

Later, the Rani returns his call. ‘‘I receive her on board accompanied by the gentleman I met earlier whose role is a secret that the lady is not about to share with me. They are both not averse to a gin and tonic. For a second round the gentleman declines my steward’s offer to dilute his beverage with the tonic… She wishes me and my ship good luck and is ready to leave with all the dignity of one who knows that she is the cynosure of the small knot of officers and sailors saluting here at the gangway.’’

I am sure Commander de Gama did the honours with the time honoured ceremonies, as befits one captain to another. I hope the present Rani and her tribe have survived the great tragedy which has struck her domain.

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