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This is an archive article published on November 23, 1999

The Kurta Sutra

Did you know that the kurta also called the kameez is derived from the French-Portuguese chemise. It resembles the Western shirt and has ...

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Did you know that the kurta also called the kameez is derived from the French-Portuguese chemise. It resembles the Western shirt and has over the years seen various modification. Here we have a few guidelines on how to choose the kurta to suit from.

  • The Lucknowi kurta:
    Similar to the A-line dress in the West it usually comes with a kali and traditional chikan embroidery. Almost anybody can carry it off.
  • The Pheran:
    Wide bodied and longer in length than the Lucknowi kurta the pheran has its roots in Kashmir. Basically a shapeless garment it is ideal for a woman with a widely spreading figure as it conceals unsightly bulges.
  • The Kalidar kurta:
    It has its origins in the ghagra/lehnga kalis or panels are sewn into the waist to widen the flare. Can be worn by all kinds of figures.
  • The Mughal kurta:
    While the Lucknowi kurta or the pheran has no restrictive waistlines the Mughal kurta has a clinched waistline which is sometimes elasticised for convenience. It only looks good on a slender waist and lithe figure. This look is passe today.
  • The Anarkali kurta:
    To the Mughal kurta a bolero or bodice was introduced, which heightened the drama. Only to be worn for a theatrical effect.
  • The Angarkha:
    This kurta of two flaps one overlapping the other and tied together by strings. Popular with the ancient Rajasthanis, the Angarkha was really in vogue a couple of years back but today has seen a slight loss of favour.
  • The Front Opened kurta:
    In between the kurta with a front opening is rather popular as also ones with a round shape. Not a good bet for those with a heavy lower body.
  • The Short kurta:
    Reminiscent of Asha Parekh8217;s hey days the short kurta was revived last year, but faded out rather soon because it didn8217;t have many takers. Looks best teamed with churidars and requires an hour glass figure to carry it off.
  • The Straight kurta:
    Very en vogue currently the straight kurta is no fuss and suits almost any figure. Interesting necklines add to the drama and poetry of the kurta.
  • The Tunic Style kurta:
    Very haute. This kurta is a fashion runway special. With long side slits it can be teamed with almost anything: palazzos, a long skirt even tights. Great for a fusion look. Very young and trendy.
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